BigBendFishing.Net

I have a 90HP 4-stroke outboard on my flats boat...most have told me that using the engine support(s) that come stock on the engine that you flip up/down, will work OK while trailering the boat to keep the engine secure from bouncing around. However, I noticed in the Honda manual that they recommend the use of a "motor support device" when trailering...and, that the engine should be "straight" & in-line as well, when trailering it (!?!?)

Anyone have experience on this as to which is the best way to trailer...or does it matter???

Thanks!

I HAVE NEVER USED A MOTOR SUPPORT, I DO USE A BUNGE CORD TO HOLDTHE KICKER DOWN ON THE ENGINE SUPPORTS WHEN TRAILERING. I HAVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THE ENGINE BOUNCING AROUND. IF YOU HAVE THE PROPER TRAILER AND SPRINGS IT SHOULD NOT BOUNCE UNLESS YOU ARE DRIVING VERY CARELESSLY OVER A VERY ROUGH ROAD.
PA THE OLD MAN OF THE SEA

Cut 2 pieces of 1 1/4" inch pvc pipes about 6 inches long. Trim up the motor and place the pvc over the hydraulic rams and then lower the motor back down.

What Tom describes is a good way to trailer your motor. We take it a step further. Rather than the pvc supports,we simply put a 1 by board between the shaft and the motor stop latch. Then we trim the tilt drive pins all the way in. Tom's suggestion is to leave the pins out to hold the pvc in place.

i use a motor support, then run the trim pins all the way in

Thanks guys! Looks like everyone has their own type trailering method & each sounds like would work OK.

Do a google search on "transom saver". $50-70 and you are shiney.

All we do is use the built-in latch support on the motor. Your transom should not need to be "saved" if it can handle the rated horsepower pushing onto it it should easily handle the weight of the motor when going down the road. Our motor is a 175 hp and that is a lot more stress on the transom then it riding down the road.

^^Possibly.

My take on the situation is this.... When the motor is in the down position to run, it is supported by the mount itself and is exerting a limited mount of twisting up and down torque. Front and back and side to side torque is handled by the hull that is specifically engineered to handle these stresses.

When it is in the up position while traveling, it has changed the moment due to its angle and by moving the center of gravity away from the transom. This allows an increased amount of torque that is accentuated by bumps in the roads. We'd like to think that the hull is designed to be able to handle these stresses as well.

In reality, most/almost all boats seem to be able to handle trailering with the motor up. It seems a small risk compared to ripping a skeg off from not having enough ground clearance while trailering.

But $70 is also a small amount of money compared to the price of a new or repaired transom/boat/motor.

My outboard owners manual also specifically states (in bold print) not to trailer it with it in the up position unless supported by a device such as the "transom saver" (their product name, not my description).

Not to mention - if you dont have anything to lock it into the up position, your tilt/trim is taking all the load. Have you priced those lately?