Page 1 of 2

Water Pressure gauge

Posted: June 15th, 2007, 9:19 pm
by Redbelly
Just exactly what is the function of one? I have a jackplate, is it necessary to have one?

Posted: June 15th, 2007, 9:22 pm
by Eerman
When you have a jackplate is the best time to have one. Tells you the water pressure moving the motor, so you don't overheat.

Posted: June 15th, 2007, 9:30 pm
by Redfin
Eerman wrote:When you have a jackplate is the best time to have one. Tells you the water pressure moving the motor, so you don't overheat.
exactly... :wink:

Posted: June 16th, 2007, 7:22 pm
by Redbelly
If the motor is peeing even raised to the max, isn't getting water to cool it?

Posted: June 16th, 2007, 9:22 pm
by Barhopr
may be getting water to pee but may not have enough presure to cool the engine properly. water presure gauge will tell you.

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 1:33 pm
by rocket
Are water pressure gauges still accurate after installing a rock gaurd??

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 2:16 pm
by birddog
Yes. However TinCan did have an issue where his rock guard was creating turbalance and preventing water from going into the intakes. Particularly with his JP raised.

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 2:22 pm
by Redbelly
I noticed my water coming out was not "solid" looking, but sort of broken up. When I got home and hooked up the hose to flush the stream was "solid" looking. I am wondering if this is a pressure issue, or if there was something clogging the water tube that the higher pressure from the water hose cleared out. I'll know next trip to the water.

I have a rock guard also.

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 2:25 pm
by Redbelly
birddog wrote:Yes. However TinCan did have an issue where his rock guard was creating turbalance and preventing water from going into the intakes. Particularly with his JP raised.
What was the cure?

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 3:12 pm
by birddog
He took the RG off.

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 3:14 pm
by birddog
I've noticed no ill-effect from the RG on my 115. With the JP 6" high I have just shy of 20 lbs. water pressure. I credit that to the tunnel hull.

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 4:56 pm
by Redbelly
I think the tunnels design feeds enough water for the raising of the motor with proper function. That's why water pressure is still sufficient. No need for a low water pickup.

I wonder why in TC's case he had to remove the Rg? What was different on his setup?

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 5:16 pm
by birddog
Redbelly wrote:
I wonder why in TC's case he had to remove the Rg? What was different on his setup?
Thats a whole nuther can 'o worms. I'll let him answer that. :lol:

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 5:24 pm
by tin can
Redbelly wrote: I wonder why in TC's case he had to remove the Rg? What was different on his setup?
My boat was factory rigged without a jack plate. The factory setup was with the motor 2" above the transom. When the jack plate was installed, the transom was not re drilled, and the jack plate was bolted in the same holes the motor was. The jack plate adds 2" of motor height. What that means is my motor is raised 4" with the jack plate all the way down. It runs fine there, with no blowout. However, as high as the water pickups are on the lower unit housing, the rock guard caused enough turbulance for the pressure to drop in the turns, or if I raised the motor any higher. I'd rather be careful and take my chances with the rocks than guarantee a burned up motor because of lack of cooling.

Posted: June 17th, 2007, 7:18 pm
by Redbelly
So am I right in assuming yours is not a tunnel hull?