BigBendFishing.Net

What type of stearing (besides stiff) do I have?
this is the helm:

Disconnect the steering cable from the motor.
See if the motor will pivot manually.
Also turn the steering wheel with the cable disconnected.
The one that sticks is the problem.

Rodbow, that is a rotary helm. The most common steering problem is the rod on the end of the cable sticking in the tilt tube of the motor.
Do what JT said. If the motor turns freely and the steering wheel turns freely with the cable removed. use a 12 ga. shotgun bore brush and some PB Blaster to clean the inside of the tilt tube on the motor. Clean the cable good, put some light grease on it. Put it back in and you should be good to go.

Thanks to the sages. The motor turns freely but the steering wheel is still stiff with the steering rod removed.
I hope my cable(s) isn't as bad as another described in searching the problem -

But for you high-tech types here's a gizmo someone else put together:


3/4 galvanized T and plug with reducer to 1/2 with another reducer to a 1/4 then 1/4 air interchange fitting. On the other side 3/4 to 1/2 then 1/2 nipple, Then 3ft clear tubing and hose clamps. slide the coupling back off the cable and the hose can be clamped onto the cable itself. Use teflon tape to seal everything off. The plug section is to add the seafoam and oil. I used about 3 to 6 oz of seafoam to start with.
I used 120 lbs on the compressor, Once I hooked the air supply up give it time to work. I think on the first cable it took about 3 hours before anything even came out of the rack end. Once it started it I let that first batch of seafoam loosen the crud up then I put about another 3 ozs and ran that through. after that I put walmart brand 5/30 synthetic oil and let that sit about an hour. Then the exact same thing on the other cable. While under pressure work wheel back and forth and you will feel it starting to break up. Also work the wheel with the oil.

Put some rags or some type of pan under the helm to catch the drippings and crud.

I assume the plastic tubing has to be large enough to go over the steering rod at the motor end of the cable.

Seems like a good idea. I think I would disconnect the cable at the helm before doing this, rather than push all the crud in the cable through the helm.

A new cable aint near expensive enuf for me to go through all that trouble

For the full read here is the link:
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=455924

Since some of you are master fixers... here are some questions you can teach me on.

In order to remove the cable from the tilt tube, it appears that I will have to unbolt the motor to shift it over portward to the side because I don't have enough play in the cable - Not fond of doing this. Even if I do, it may not provide enough play.

Have you ever heard of unhooking the cable(s) or the entire helm assmbly in order to shift the entire teleflex unit towards the console as it is removed from the tilt tube?

What makes up the teleflex.. Is it one or two steel cables inside the hard plastic sheath? I know it bends but don't know how much. Also, what would you use to beat the rod out of the tube?
Thanks

The usual method is to move the motor.
DO NOT "BEAT" the rod out.
Heat
PB Blaster
pipe wrench to rotate forward and rear
more PB
more rotation.

ok, I removed the swim platform, got the motor hung in a tree, bolts out and motor shifted over. New question, besides the teleflex nut do I also loosen the nut that's jam up against the bracket (shown on the right in the pic)?

No.

Removed, tube cleaned. This results in new questions - the previous owner had put some type of goop around/thru the 4 bolts holding the motor bracket on the boat. maybe for holding power or shock resistance or rust resistance?

What type of goop is used when reattaching motor to transom? I thought I would replace the bolts also.. these are fine threaded 11/16" headed bolts - are they specialty bolts or would SS replacements from Lowes work?

Thanks

A good quality RTV caulk will do.
I believe the original was 5200 marine caulk if it is white.
Use a grade 5 or higher nut and bolt.

What JT said. 5200 will seal it, but it might take a hunk of gelcoat with it the next time you have to remove the engine.

I'd recommend a lock nut on the mounting bolts, too.

It's all back together but it doesn't "turn with a pinky" by any means. Next job is to move the axle forward for better balance and less tongue weight (hard for two guys to pick up). Getting ready for some spring season therapy!