BigBendFishing.Net

1997 Carolina Skiff 198 SemiV
I need to replace the wiring that runs from the Stern to the Bow underneath the rub rail. If I lift the top edge of the rub rail (rr) I can see the old two wires and it appears that it would lift out fairly easily. What concerns me is by removing the old and replacing with the new, that the rr would not fit snuggly at the top like it does now. I don't see any evidence of adhesive having been applied to the original installation of the rr. Anyone know how the rr was installed by CS originally? I've put out a couple of questions on the Carolina Skiff Owners forum but haven't had any responses yet. Thanks.

HEY BUD, JUST DISCONNECT THE WIRES AT THE LIGHT AND TIE THE NEW WIRES TO THE OLD ONES, GO TO THE SWITCH AND DISCONNECT THE OLD WIRES AND PULL THE LINE ALL THE WAY TILL THE NEW LINE COMES OUT. GO BACK TO THE LIGHT AND CUT AND ATTACH THE NEW WIRE TOTHE LIGHT, THEN GO BACK TO THE SWITCH AND DISCONNECT THE NEW LINE FROM THE OLD ONE AND ATTACH TO THE SWITCH. I HAVE DONE THIS MANY TIMES AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM DOING IT THIS WAY. HOPE THIS HELPS YA OUT.
EARL

Thanks for the information Earl.

One thing I did not mention is that there is NO CHASE or Wire Run... the old wires are stuck inside the rub rail against the hull. I might be mistaken but I don't think the old wires will slide against the rubber and the hull. They can be lifted out by pulling up on them but my concern is placing the new wires could cause the rub rail to become loose and not fit tight. I really don't want to have to replace the rub rail. I may have to run a bead of 5200 or some other sealer/adhesive and use several clamps until it's cured.

Hey Bud -
Although I've never done it myself, here is what I'd do....after you get the new wires in place, or even as you run the wires, clean the rub rails with silicone lubricant then bump the rub-rails back in with a rubber mallet. That should get them seated properly. The wires should not present a problem.....

Having a similar boat, J14CC, and the same problem, it is all a friction fit. Before you separate the rr from the hull mark your center point on the hull and rr. Pull off the rr and peel out the wires. Replace them and connect all the light sockets and test for operation. Then as was previously suggested, bump the rr onto the hull with a rubber hammer. Start at the front and work your way to the rear. You might have a little extra rr left as it tends to stretch with age. If you have trouble getting it to stay in place, you can try some 5200, or as I did, a strategically placed pop-rivet or 3 will do nicely, especially at the bow and stern.
Not really as tough a job as it seems at first.

Bud, you know that after being on your vessel and falling in love with it I had the opportunity of getting an older version similar to yours.
The ex or ex-ex owner(s) were DIY'rs and here's how the bow light wire was run.
It comes out and around the stern and runs under the starboard side lip of the boat. Its held in place by a few nylon loop ties and when it gets to the bow goes through (the lip) directly into the bow light unit. Definately not as pretty as being totally hidden but the scheme has held up. The loop ties come in clear but here are some I found as an example. PRO: Keeep your rr as is. CON: a few holes

Thanks for the information and suggestions.

David, that would certainly be an option although I might be tempted to place it on the inside to eliminate tearing it off during a difficult docking or trailer loading. Those of us who have a CS know that maneuverability is not a strong suite at slow speed sort of like trying to steer a giant pumpkin seed on the water. Fishingfool, your experience would seem to verify that the rr is a friction fit and did not have adhesive applied, although that would not rule out using some if a few spots did not want to lay down. I had one reply from the Owners forum where 5200 was used with clamps (lots of em). I appreciate the encouragement that the job ain't that big a deal...sometimes just getting started is the hardest part. I'm down in Frostproof and although I've found a source for the wire, there certainly are not the services down here that we have in Tallahassee. You guys play nice.

I have a skiff and used a PVC pipe run along the edge of floor next to sidewall for a chase for bow lights and trolling motor wiring. Tacked in a few places with 3m.