Trolling moter question???

[Hit-n-Miss]

Anyone ever have any luck using a fresh water model in the salt? I hear all these stories about buying a salt model and it breaking after a couple of uses. Why cant you just put an anode on the shaft of a freshwater model or anode shaft nut? Would use only when tide in and conditions right to get in close. Would use removable bracket so not exposed to salt when not planning on using.

[crappielimits]

Call Minn Kota and ask them what the difference is between a saltwater and freshwater trolling motor. You will be surprised! You are on the right track. 1.800.227.6433

As far as any other company, I won't think I would take the chance.

[Flint River Pirate]

I tried it on a Jon boat a few years ago. The fresh water motor didn't last long.

[kenfly]

I use a reg minn kota on my Jon, trolling motor guy said it would be fine as long as you rinse it off good when you come back, haven't had any problems so far. Tried a motor guide saltwater one varimax and was crab using so went back to a new endura 55, just my .02


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mraquatics]

I have been using a Minn Kot 32# on my Gheenoe for several years on many dozens of trips to the coast. It certainly show signs of abuse now; nuts are rusting, paint is coming off the housing and I have had to replace the power cable once already. However, I honestly never thought it would hold up so well, although I do give it the TLC salty use demands. If I thought of it back then I would have replaced all the nuts and bolts with stainless right from the beginning.

[Steve Stinson]

When I first switched from bass fishing to saltwater fishing, I had a 1978 Skeeter bass boat with an old Johnson foot control bow mount trolling motor on it. I ran that boat and trolling motor all over Tampa Bay for 8 years with no problems.


Steve Stinson

[Luv2Yak]

Bassyaks uses freshwater Minn Kota motors and offers a saltwater "option":

Saltwater option

Interlux Primocon a non-bleeding, anti-corrosive primer is used to provide an excellent barrier on underwater aluminum surfaces . After which the housing is painted with Interlux Trilux 33 is specifically formulated for aluminum engines, and drive parts, The motor shaft is then sealed, and electrical connections are encapsulated in resin. Giving this motor a rating of IP68, capable of submersion

This procedure can be applied to any of the motors we use

Add $100.00

http://bassyaks.com/saltwater-option/

from BassPro Shops (about Minn Kota's saltwater Riptide motors) :

•Saltwater-engineered, premium-grade marine alloys--virtually impervious to rust
•Indestructible composite shaft--pound for pound, stronger than stainless steel
•Fully encapsulated electronics--control boards are fully encapsulated in marine-grade urethane
•Sacrificial anode--patented, replaceable anode protects metallic components from galvanic corrosion

Minn Kota Riptide Transom-Mount Trolling Motors offer advanced corrosion protection. Premium-grade alloys are impervious to rust. Metals undergo a rigid multi-step cleaning process before being anodized or coated with special zinc dichromate armor plating. All components are then finished with a 5-mil TGIC polyester powder coat paint. All models except SC (5/3 speed) models feature Digital Maximizer™ Technology, which allows up to five times longer run time on a single charge. All Riptide trolling motors feature a sacrificial zinc anode to fight galvanic corrosion. The replaceable anode is conveniently mounted on the prop hub for better protection and longer motor life. All Riptide motors feature a manufacturer's 2-year limted warranty.

http://www.basspro.com/Minn-Kota-Riptid ... ct/103795/

For the sake of comparison...Bass Pro Shops pricing... MK Riptide (saltwater) 45 thrust lbs 5/3 speeds $250 variable speed $300. MK Endura C2 (freshwater) 45 lbs thrust 5/3 speeds $200. MK Endura Max (freshwater) 45 thrust lbs variable speed $240.

"the bottom line"...takes more than an anode and a garden hose to keep an electric trolling motor used in saltwater in good shape.

Whether you DIY (replace all nuts, bolts, etc. with stainless steel, seal the shaft, paint, anode, etc.) or pay someone else, i.e., Bassyaks, to do it (and do it right) with time/labor and materials you'll spend at least the same, if not more, than the difference in cost between fresh vs saltwater models.

And if you're buying a new electric trolling motor, putting a freshwater model into saltwater, good luck expecting any help from the manufacturer for corrosion-related problems under warranty.

[Hit-n-Miss]

Was planning on a hand control. Conditions would only be right once and a while to use in close when I can go. It might get used a half a dozen times a year and left home the rest of the time. Thanks