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Anyone have any reviews/opinions on Alweld hulls? Looking at a 1756 or 1856 CC Marsh Tunnel with pods in particular. How do they compare to the other brands (G3, SeaArk, Carolina Skiff were other options for my Yamaha 70 2 stroke).

Can't speak for Alweld boats, But I currently own a RX872 Sea Ark and could not be happier with that boat. I owned a G-3 18/72 for 10 years and while it was a great fishing boat I always had issues with the welds cracking. Not sure if that issue has been corrected or not as I see a lot of them on the water. A few other club members has Sea Arks now and maybe they'll chime in. Oh by the way my boat is 18 foot long with a 72 inch beam and my 2 stroke Yamaha 75 will push it 39 mph with 2 angles and gear. Good luck and let us know what you get.

Thanks One Keeper! I have a 2004 G3 1756 and the transom turned into powder due to the reaction between the PT plywood, salt, and aluminum. I also have pitting under my bunks. I just ripped the motor off this weekend. Considering my options whether to get a new hull or try to fix the G3. I think all the manufacturers went away from wood in their transoms due to those issues.

I went through a similar situation a couple years ago. I split a Monark hull out near Black Rock (turns out Black Rock is really several rock piles in the same area). Put the motor and electronics on a new Tracker hull and then had similar problems to yours within the 5 yr warranty term. Sold the hull Tracker gave me as a warranty replacement, then bought a 2013 SeaArk 2072. Have had no issues with the SeaArk.

- Steve Stinson

Thanks Steve!!

One note of caution on your old hull. If you have it welded, the metal composition of the welds will not be the same as the original hull. Where two different metals touch in saltwater, you will have corrosion. So the welded hull is prone to the same issues you are already experiencing.

I have a 1652 Tunnel Alweld and couldn't be happier with the boat. I got the hull from Jack's in Perry 3 years ago, and then put in a floor and extended the front deck for more casting room. While slight, the tunnel does allow me to run a short shaft and the hull is light enough I only run a 20hp. I've bumped more rocks and oyster bars than I can count since I've had it, and never had the first issue. A few scuffs, but the hull has been rock solid so far.

I've had G3's and SeaArk's in the past and loved the hulls, but did have the same problem with weld cracks on my G3. It was also the model that had the gas tank in the back, and when full had NO hole-shot! The SeaArk's I've had have been absolute tanks, but they also had a pretty thick gauge, which can certainly be a plus! This time around I wanted something that would draft shallow, be somewhat light so I could mount a smaller motor, but still solid enough for all the rocks and bars around here. The Alweld definitely fit that bill for me, and I can definitely draft over skinny water. I don't think you could go wrong with any of these hulls.

I don't know how to upload photos yet, still pretty new to the forum! If you want to see some pics, send me a pm and I'll text them to you.

I had a triton 1860 "redfish series" tunnel (still wish I had that boat) and it had a weld or two that wanted to crack mainly around the transom support brackets. it was a tunnel and I ran the shoals here on the flint so I knew it was going to be a matter of time before I broke something off but, hey! that's what boat insurance is for right? Sea Arks are Stout, they're proud of them tho!

Thanks for the information everyone. Here’s what’s left of my G3 transom....






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I have a 01 1872 seaark tunnel w’ 50hp merc that i got from my neighbor a couple of years ago. Love it it’s been a solid boat, hole shot is awesome and I can run with very Lil water , only issue with hull itself was I had a lil bit off pitting where the front trailer bunk brackets were corroded pretty bad and eat it up a lil, sealed up with an epoxy and redid trailer and all is good


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I had a 2004 G3 175 with 60 4 stroke and the transom did the same thing. I took mine to Porter Marine Repair 850-421-1490 in Tallahassee and he completely rebuilt my transom for $500. Looked great when he got finished.

The G3 does not have PT plywood. He said it was because water was getting between the wood and it would heat up. As it heated up it would eat away at the aluminum. The way he explain it to me was "put a piece of ice in your hand and pour salt on the ice and then close your hand tight, see how long you can hold it". So to me if the boat had not been in saltwater then the problem would not happen. I did some research and if I remember right all the boats that did this had been in salt water. This is probably why aluminum boats have all aluminum transoms now.