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Got a question for the non technically challenged. I have a 70hp Yamaha on the back of my Carolina Skiff.

I've noticed that when I run the Trim all the way down that the steering becomes very resistant to turning. The wheel gets very "heavy" and difficult to turn. If I trim the motor up just a bit the resistance goes away however I would have to trim it up to far to avoid porpoising if I were to run wide open. My first thought would be the steering cables, but it doesn't seem logical (to me) that it would a cabling problem if it only happens when the motor is trimmed down all the way. Does any one have some thoughts to share as to what to inspect or look for? I'm not sure how the engine and bracket are joined together as far as the hinge points... if something could be bent or if bearings are involved??... let me know what you think. Thanks.

The more you trim the less resistance (less motor in the water) which equates to easier turning....If it is pulling one way or the other, your cavitation plate anode might need adjusting....If it's not pulling left or right, you just need to lift weights and get stronger

There is always hydraulic steering as well......

Are you talking at speed or just tilting the motor up and down at rest? If at speed Chalk is correct, if it's just sitting in the driveway and it gets stiff when you tilt it down all the way, there may a bind in the steering cable.

Thanks for your response Chalk.

I agree with everything you said (even to the point of lifting weights )

I'm familar with the anode issue and the tendency for the motor to want to turn left or right (sometimes by its self) and I've adjusted those in the past. But believe me this is WAY BEYOND that sort of situation. This has started in the past year or so. It actually has so much resistance that it would not allow a quick turn if you need to do one. (in either direction)

What "chugg" said.....If you do not have a grease fitting on the cable it my be binding and in need of some lubrication....

You might want to unhook it and prop it up and squirt some WD-40 or Liquid Wrench down it and let it sit. My dad had a stearing cable that was froze and I thought he might twist the stearing wheel off. He's not very patient. We let it soak overnight and hooked it up in the morning. It worked like new.

Liquid Wrench and a hammer can work miracles, ask me how I know this

How do you know that?

Thanks for all your responses.... Help me out here.... It it were the cable causing the problem, is it possible that it could be free enough to steer with just a couple of fingers on the wheel but then take both hands when the motor is down as far as it would go??

Disconnect the steering at the motor "one bolt at the end of the stearing piston", let the motor down all the way and try turning it by hand, raise it some and try turning again. If it is hard to turn with the cable disconnected, you should be able to get some grease into the pivot shaft of the motor "there should be a fitting for that"

Thanks wevans, that makes an awful lot of sense as far as trouble shoot'n Should tell me if its the cable or something else.

One of the reasons I'm a bit confused by this is I had the motor tuned up just about a year ago and the cables were checked and everything lubed then. Never had a problem in the two years prior to this.

Steering cable is the biggest problem on my boat..I check it before leaving the house...sometimes I have to persuade it to move....

10-4 on that I use to use a mushroom anchor for persuasion. After taking the steering rod out of the cylinder on the motor, I cleaned it out with a twelve gauge shotgun cleaning brush and a drill. Regreased put it back together and it works good. Although this does not seem like the problem you are having it could be a part of it. Could it be that the foot is touching the transom of the boat when it is all the way down? Good Luck

Thanks for the tip charlie (and all others). I disconnected the cable from the motor as per wevans suggestion. The motor pivoted very smoothly. When I turned the wheel from lock to lock I could feel one particular point where it would bind so it does appear to be in the cable... Just like most folks predicted. I noticed that when I rotated the steering rod just a bit it would either eliminate the bind or cause the restriction to return. I think that explains why I was leaning towards a non cable source.... IE: when the motor is being trimmed either up or down the steering rod will rotate slightly and I believe that is when and why the restriction would occur only at a particular trim position. Thanks to all

Before replacing the cable, remove the piston from the sleeve clean them both good, grease and put back together it don't take long and needs to be done every few years anyhow that is where 80% of steering problems occurs