Jackplates

Talltails · Post by **Talltails** » March 24th, 2007, 10:07 pm

I have a 19' CS with a Johnson 120

I am looking at jackplate options, but don't really know where to start. Do I need a hydraulic, or is manual ok? Where do I buy? What size? Anybody....

Post by **Chalk** » March 25th, 2007, 8:23 am

Why do you need a jack plate?

What kind of prop do you have now (three blade or four blade)?

I will not own a boat without one, but CS are known for their ability to get up in shalllow water with the right motor and prop.

If you would like a better hole shot and ability to plane at lower RPMs and you don't have a four blade prop..I would look into that first.

I'm well pleased with my 6" Bob's Machine Shop hydraulic jack plate.

http://www.bobsmachine.com/

Post by **Barhopr** » March 25th, 2007, 9:41 am

Ditto what chalk said. It depends on what you're trying to do. If looking for faster plaining look at adding trim tabs first. They make a huge difference.

Post by **Nathan** » March 25th, 2007, 9:55 am

I have a CMC ML-65 manual jackplate that I'll make someone a real good deal on. Won't fit on my Bayboat because the hydraulic steering ram hits the transom when tilting the engine.

Nathan

Talltails · Post by **Talltails** » March 25th, 2007, 8:24 pm

I have more than enough power to get up on plane almost immediately. I just don't like the performance of my rig in shallow water with the motor trimmed up. I had understood jackplates to allow performance at any speed in shallow water.

Post by **Chalk** » March 25th, 2007, 8:33 pm

True, it will allow you to idle in at lower speeds, not at any speed.

Talltails · Post by **Talltails** » March 25th, 2007, 8:58 pm

You mentioned you have a hydraulic plate, and Nathan a manual. Do you regularly adjust in the water, or just to the fishing conditions. In other words, is it worth it to pay the extra $ for the hydraulic?

Post by **tin can** » March 25th, 2007, 9:14 pm

Talltails wrote: Do you regularly adjust in the water, or just to the fishing conditions. In other words, is it worth it to pay the extra $ for the hydraulic?

I also have the Bob's hydraulic plate. The greatest advantage to the hydraulic is the ability to raise the motor up for shallow water idleing. You won't be able to run with the jack plate all the way up. With a fixed, or manual plate, you set it at the height the boat runs best. There is no adjustment on the water. If you do a lot of skiny water fishing you might want to consider spending the money for the hydraulic.

Post by **Barhopr** » March 25th, 2007, 9:39 pm

You can run on plain very skinny with the Hydro. Plate... probably skinnier than the boat will draft at idle. This is handy when you have to get over shallow areas to get to deeper areas. I think one of the main pros of a jackplate is that it sets the engine back off of the transom enough to put the foot in clear(cleaner) water and allows the prop to hold on better. If the trim is set just right, you can run with the Plate all the way up.

Post by **Redbelly** » March 25th, 2007, 9:50 pm

I have a tunnel hull and can run WOT with it raised completely. I do think I need a 4 blade prop and maybe a Bob's hydro plate.

Post by **Barhopr** » March 25th, 2007, 10:07 pm

Redbelly wrote:I have a tunnel hull and can run WOT with it raised completely. I do think I need a 4 blade prop and maybe a Bob's hydro plate.

Hows that going by the way? You get it dialed in yet?

Post by **Nathan** » March 25th, 2007, 10:08 pm

I have a manual jackplate on my Gheenoe that is easily adjustable while on the water. I've seen some guys spot weld a ratcheting wrench to the adjusting nut so they can reach back and do it on the fly. The Gheenoe only has a 15hp motor though. With larger engines it isn't feasible to adjust a manual plate on the water. The easy way to adjust with large engines and a manual plate is to use a floor jack under the skeg to slowly apply lift as you turn the nut. If you want to adjust on the water go with a hydraulic or electric jack plate.

Nathan

Seachaser · Post by **Seachaser** » March 26th, 2007, 12:58 pm

The main reason jack plates are installed is to gain an advantage in shallow water fishing. If your prop is raised 6 inches, you can idle in shallower water. This makes it more unlikely to hit something also (as I can testify to). Saturday, with the help of my wife, we installed a CMC hydraulic jackplate on a CS SC/90hp. It was a lot easier than I thought. Took about 2 hours of actual work and another hour reading directions and a peice of cake. With the optional holes on motor and plate, I can raise it to about 8 inches higher than the original transom mounting location. I have yet to try it out, but everything works. One thing to consider, the CMC includes everything you need to do the job. You do not have to find extra bolts, wires, hook up a seperate hydraulic unit, or anything. It is turn key. Hope this helps. all of the above is my opinion.

This website helps with adjusting.
http://www.bogerprops.com/Jackplate.html

Post by **tin can** » March 26th, 2007, 8:07 pm

A reccomendation, and a word of warning. If you install a hydraulic jack plate, I would suggest you install a water pressure gauge on your motor. You can raise the motor high enough, while running, so that it no longer picks up water for cooling. The water pressure gauge will let you know when this happens. The remedy for this problem is a low water pickup . Low water pickups don't like sand, mud, or grass.

Talltails · Post by **Talltails** » March 26th, 2007, 8:28 pm

If you install a hydraulic jack plate, I would suggest you install a water pressure gauge on your motor.

I definitely would. I checked out the CMC website, and they had water pressure guage kits as an upgrade for a reasonable cost.

BigBendFishing.Net

Jackplates

Jackplates

To answer your original question.........