Question for Chalk, Noleflyfisher, etc.
Moderators: bman, Chalk, Tom Keels
Question for Chalk, Noleflyfisher, etc.
I wanna get into fly fishing and recently had a buddy (who's trying to get in the rod-building bidness) build a sweet 8 weight, 9.5' rod for me. I was wondering if any of you guys had suggestions as to what kind of reel to buy (assuming that there is a $200 limit). I appreciate any suggestions.
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Boom goes the dynamite.
- Chalk
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Rods & Reels are like women (and Tincan), some cost alot, but they all perform similiar actions, some better than others
The most important part is the rod, second is the line and third being the reel. The reel and line are really on the same plane of importance IMO.
You can get into an Okuma for around $35.00....If you have a limit of $200 I would look at the following:
Used Billy Pate / Tibor off of Ebay (New is around $475)
Old Florida (used)
Redingtion
Temple Fork
Lamson (used)
This is a good one - http://cgi.ebay.com/Redington-Titanium- ... dZViewItem
I'm using a Temple Fork 310, like it so far...better than the Martins I used in years past...Looking for a Billy Pate, I just want one
I'm just getting back into it....If you haven't ever done it...I would goto BigBendFly Shop and take a couple of their setups for a spin, maybe a lesson or two...To find out if it's your cup of tea...I have cussed the line several times in the past two weeks, especially when the leader wraps around your head or you can't get your cast to act right...I believe Lefty said to practice everyday and you should be okay in a season..Not sure what a season is, it's 4 or 12 month's...I practice 30 minutes a day, more on the weekends...I'm alot better than I was two weeks ago...Biggest thing to do is go layout 100 ft and look at it, because that's about as far as you will be fishing, in reality measure 50 ft and that is a realistic cast...I'm casting at about 65 ft now, I hope to make it go where I want to soon


The most important part is the rod, second is the line and third being the reel. The reel and line are really on the same plane of importance IMO.
You can get into an Okuma for around $35.00....If you have a limit of $200 I would look at the following:
Used Billy Pate / Tibor off of Ebay (New is around $475)
Old Florida (used)
Redingtion
Temple Fork
Lamson (used)
This is a good one - http://cgi.ebay.com/Redington-Titanium- ... dZViewItem
I'm using a Temple Fork 310, like it so far...better than the Martins I used in years past...Looking for a Billy Pate, I just want one

I'm just getting back into it....If you haven't ever done it...I would goto BigBendFly Shop and take a couple of their setups for a spin, maybe a lesson or two...To find out if it's your cup of tea...I have cussed the line several times in the past two weeks, especially when the leader wraps around your head or you can't get your cast to act right...I believe Lefty said to practice everyday and you should be okay in a season..Not sure what a season is, it's 4 or 12 month's...I practice 30 minutes a day, more on the weekends...I'm alot better than I was two weeks ago...Biggest thing to do is go layout 100 ft and look at it, because that's about as far as you will be fishing, in reality measure 50 ft and that is a realistic cast...I'm casting at about 65 ft now, I hope to make it go where I want to soon


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Pardon me.Chalk wrote:Or someone that knows how to use itRon Wilson wrote:Seems like all the knowledge Chalk possesses relative to fishing, boats, tackle etc... that he would have a better net on his boat.![]()
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What was I supposed to do today?
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Getting started almost any reel will do. I would not go overboard until you decide to stick with it. My suggestion for a line to get started with is the Scientific Angler Head Start line, it's a weight foward floating line with a head/taper that really loads the rod and helps beginners get a feel for timing. Do you know what action the rod you have is (fast, slow)? I would recommend a fast rod in saltwater (even for a beginner), just went through this with my brother and he had a difficult time casting with a slower action rod in moderate winds but with a fast action he could punch it on out. Also on the suggestion of practicing I would practice with a fly attached (hook cut off), a little weight on the end of the fly line makes a big difference. Another useful tip for a beginner is to toss a smaller fly generally a #6-#2 for an 8 weight. Try not to get to discouraged on your first few outtings give it time and you'll get the hang of it. 

- noleflyfisher
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Casey, you've got some great advice already. The reel really is the least important element if you target reds and trout. The reels Chalk mentioned are all excellent choices. The Redington CDL is a great reel for the money. Eerman just got a good deal on a Lamson Litespeed (excellent reel) from Cabelas. If you can find a used Tibor, Nautilus or Abel they are awesome reels as well. I fish a Sage 3300 on my 6 weight and a Sage 3400 on my 8 and love 'em. I've got old Lamsons on my 7 and 9 and they have held up fine.
Whatever reel you decide on I would make sure it has (1) a smooth, preferably sealed, disc drag and (2) a mid to large arbor. The Head Start line is a good starter line. You can also overline your rod (put a nine line on an eight rod) as well which will help you get the feel of things and load the rod. Good luck and leave the spinning/casting rods at home.
Whatever reel you decide on I would make sure it has (1) a smooth, preferably sealed, disc drag and (2) a mid to large arbor. The Head Start line is a good starter line. You can also overline your rod (put a nine line on an eight rod) as well which will help you get the feel of things and load the rod. Good luck and leave the spinning/casting rods at home.

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