Ken, I agree that this question is pointless. Although you did seem interested enough to look up some financial reports.
Please update on your experience with the reels.
Daiwa Capricorn- Do over
Moderators: bman, Chalk, Tom Keels
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lightchop
Ken & Cran,
Ken, I don't get your point about Timken -- they make what's referred to as, "industrial' bearings -- heavy, medium duty bearings and some light duty bearings on bicycles and go-carts. I would be surprised but not too surprised they made the specialty bearings in fishing reels -- more likely those used in earth moving equipment and drag-lines.
Now, Cran, if you too, think the horse is dead, please don't beat it. Like you once said, a discussion becomes an argument when someone tries to convince the other to change their minds. Believe what you wish! Most of my views are based on information about the real world and not starting out with a premiss and arguing 'til I drop. Like I said, I like science, technology and logic to make up my mind, not some advertising hype or protectionist azz-covering copy or claim.
Trust everyone, but cut the cards!
If you got an old tooth hanging around, put it under your pillow, tonight!
Ken, I don't get your point about Timken -- they make what's referred to as, "industrial' bearings -- heavy, medium duty bearings and some light duty bearings on bicycles and go-carts. I would be surprised but not too surprised they made the specialty bearings in fishing reels -- more likely those used in earth moving equipment and drag-lines.
Now, Cran, if you too, think the horse is dead, please don't beat it. Like you once said, a discussion becomes an argument when someone tries to convince the other to change their minds. Believe what you wish! Most of my views are based on information about the real world and not starting out with a premiss and arguing 'til I drop. Like I said, I like science, technology and logic to make up my mind, not some advertising hype or protectionist azz-covering copy or claim.
Trust everyone, but cut the cards!
If you got an old tooth hanging around, put it under your pillow, tonight!
Last edited by lightchop on October 8th, 2003, 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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lightchop
Ken,
You need to relate that M&E money to things that are connected to fishing reel gears and bearings, etc. It could represent ships to transport that stuff across the Pacific, or even aircargo planes, etc. You are still making giant leaps of logic and faith.
Keep cool and don't beat Cran's horse -- it's dead!
You need to relate that M&E money to things that are connected to fishing reel gears and bearings, etc. It could represent ships to transport that stuff across the Pacific, or even aircargo planes, etc. You are still making giant leaps of logic and faith.
Keep cool and don't beat Cran's horse -- it's dead!
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lightchop
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lightchop
, or should that be "stink". 
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lightchop
Lit,
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Two yaller flies was buzzing me bad and I had to swat at 'em a long time.
Liked the no-teeth jab!
My crazy greasing thing, involves taking a brand-new reel, no matter, fresh or salt water, unscrewing the retainer cap on the opposite side from the handle, pulling out the handle/shaft and moderately pushing in marine anti-corrosion grease (usually blue, for trailer wheel bearings) until both sides are full of grease. Apply grease to retainer cap and handle shaft and replace handle and retainer cap (wipe off excess grease with paper towel). Take off drag adjuster cap. Pull off spool and apply grease to shaft and put moderate amount of grease around spool shaft that goes in and out of the reel body and on clicker spring and clicker on inside of spool. Replace spool and apply grease to fill drag cavity. Put grease on inside of drag adjuster cap. Screw drag adjuster cap back onto spool shaft. Wipe excess grease off with paper towel. Take off the spring retainer plates on each end of bail (careful not to move bail and have springs jump out) and carefully pack grease to fill the cavity. Replace plates and screws. Wipe off excess grease. Try to work some grease into the place where the anti-reverse lever shaft goes into the reel body. Oil line swivel. Wipe reel a last time to remove any excess grease or oil.
After every use, rinse reel with tap water from a plastic cup. Allow water to flow over reel and especially onto the line on the spool (don't shoot water on the reel from a hose nozzle -- this will force water into the reel housing and push salt water onto gears and bearings. Dry off water with a clean paper towel. Let reel rest horizontally to finish drying and to allow any water to drain from the drag and from the line on the spool.
If a reel has already been used without this super grease job, I'd recommend taking it apart completely and cleaning and greasing it internally with a good quality reel grease, then doing the anti-corrosion grease job I've given.
Keep in mind that the super grease-job is to put grease at all points where water can get into the real from normal fishing use. If the reel goes into and is submerged into salt water, it will need to be disassembled, flushed with distilled water, dried and greased and oiled and reassembled. Then super greased again.
Salt water is very corrosive and although so-called salt water reels usually have stainless steel bearings, stainless steel will corrode it, if left in salt water contact, long enough. Gears are usually bronze or brass and are fairly corrosion resistant, but not as much as stainless steel.
Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Two yaller flies was buzzing me bad and I had to swat at 'em a long time.
Liked the no-teeth jab!
My crazy greasing thing, involves taking a brand-new reel, no matter, fresh or salt water, unscrewing the retainer cap on the opposite side from the handle, pulling out the handle/shaft and moderately pushing in marine anti-corrosion grease (usually blue, for trailer wheel bearings) until both sides are full of grease. Apply grease to retainer cap and handle shaft and replace handle and retainer cap (wipe off excess grease with paper towel). Take off drag adjuster cap. Pull off spool and apply grease to shaft and put moderate amount of grease around spool shaft that goes in and out of the reel body and on clicker spring and clicker on inside of spool. Replace spool and apply grease to fill drag cavity. Put grease on inside of drag adjuster cap. Screw drag adjuster cap back onto spool shaft. Wipe excess grease off with paper towel. Take off the spring retainer plates on each end of bail (careful not to move bail and have springs jump out) and carefully pack grease to fill the cavity. Replace plates and screws. Wipe off excess grease. Try to work some grease into the place where the anti-reverse lever shaft goes into the reel body. Oil line swivel. Wipe reel a last time to remove any excess grease or oil.
After every use, rinse reel with tap water from a plastic cup. Allow water to flow over reel and especially onto the line on the spool (don't shoot water on the reel from a hose nozzle -- this will force water into the reel housing and push salt water onto gears and bearings. Dry off water with a clean paper towel. Let reel rest horizontally to finish drying and to allow any water to drain from the drag and from the line on the spool.
If a reel has already been used without this super grease job, I'd recommend taking it apart completely and cleaning and greasing it internally with a good quality reel grease, then doing the anti-corrosion grease job I've given.
Keep in mind that the super grease-job is to put grease at all points where water can get into the real from normal fishing use. If the reel goes into and is submerged into salt water, it will need to be disassembled, flushed with distilled water, dried and greased and oiled and reassembled. Then super greased again.
Salt water is very corrosive and although so-called salt water reels usually have stainless steel bearings, stainless steel will corrode it, if left in salt water contact, long enough. Gears are usually bronze or brass and are fairly corrosion resistant, but not as much as stainless steel.