A unique website dedicated to fishing information from Florida's Northern Big Bend. This includes the area from the Econfina River west to the Apalachicola River
I want to put teflon strips on my trailor bunks instead of carpet. I guess it's teflon, but I have seen it on other boat trailors. It is a white strip of plastic looking stuff. I want this instead of carpet.
Can anybody help?
Tanks....
Work 2 fish 4 days
1988 vintage 1436 Fisher Jon
1992 vintage 15 hp Merc
Don't like them. Too hard a surface. It will scratch the Bottom of your boat.
If you have them make sure you tie your boat down well before trailering. It will slide sideways as well as sliding on and off the trailer.
That sucker will launch so fast it will scare you. Hold on tight to your bow line when you unhook. On a steep ramp sometimes you have to keep the boat under power just to unhook it. Never unhook until the boat is in the water.
I found that if I kept a can of silicone spray in my tool box and every few months when I was parking the boat and trailer after launching the boat give it a spray that's all it needed.
Save your money. Buy a block of parrafin wax(gulf wax in the canning section) and rub it on your dry bunks when you come back to reload after fishing. The bunks have to be dry. Then the next time it will slide off easily. Reapply every couple of trips.
I recently went the same route when replacing my bunk boards. From what I found there's three options to get rid of carpet. The ones that Tincan posted have to be put on top of carpeted bunks, as do most of the strip style teflon slicks. The first option is http://www.snaptraxx.com/store.asp?pid= ... atid=19735. The problem I found with these is the $$. The second option is http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/index.html. These wouldn't work for my application as they don't make any long enough. I needed 10', 2"x6" bunk boards and the longest they have available now is 9'. They did say that longer lengths should be available soon. The third option is http://www.tiedown.com/aglideons.html(top picture). This is the option I went with. It was the cheapest and was locally available also. I bought a set for 2, 2"x6"x8' bunk boards. New 2"x6"x10' pressure treated bunk boards gave me a clean starting surface. I installed the slicks on the front(towards the trailer tongue)of the bunks and then cut the back tapered lip off the slicks. I then installed 2' of new carpet on the rear of the bunks and ran the front edge underneath the rear of the slicks. Stapled the carpet in place with stainless staples and installed the two 10' bunks on the trailer. So far I've been very pleased. It makes launching and loading much easier. The carpet gives the bunks some friction toward the rear of the boat, but when launching and loading the carpet is all in the water. I used to have problems getting the boat straight on the trailer, now it centers itself easily when power loading. Now I just need to add a roller to the front cross member instead of the pad that's on there now. That pad is the only place the boat hangs up now. I can probably get some pictures up if anyone is interested.
One more caution ta add liquid roller will bust yer booty in a heartbeat if you step on the bunk after applying it "this I know ta be a FACT"
“Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them and you have their shoes.”
Thanks for the help everyone! I don't want to have my metal boat resting on carpet, cause it holds salt. That ain't good fer the corrosion factor on aluminum!
Work 2 fish 4 days
1988 vintage 1436 Fisher Jon
1992 vintage 15 hp Merc
You will love the glide sliks with an aluminum boat.
I have a set that have been on my trailer for 10 years, and they still work great. You will not have to worry about the side to side movement because of the ribs on your boat.
I'll never own another trailer for an aluminum boat without them.