Duke's Rehab of the CABO 204 Centercon...

[DukesFin]

Yep Chuck, the flotation foam is serving two purposes, but "level" floatation was NOT why/how it was done before. There was little to NO foam in the back 1/2 of the hull. It was really concentrated forward. If the boat had been swamped, I'd have been found clinging to the bow for sure. The transom would have sunk like a rock. I've read the USCG requirements for the flotation foam and this was prior to the "level flotation".

Well, today I didn't take pictures, but here's the progress report:

All major fiberglass grinding work is done and my two new knee braces for the transom into the stringers are fabricated and installed using a "peanut butter" resin mixture. I made the knees about twice the size they were. I've got a long crack to lay 3 layers of glass down onto tomorrow... The PO of the boat had bunks on the trailer that were too short. They stopped about 1' from the transom and the glass paid the bill for that mistake, but she'll be stronger than ever when I'm done fixing that. Mat, cloth, then mat again. I've found that poly resin is pretty forgiving! Cover the knees with 3 layers of glass. Add a 1/4" by 2" strip along the inside of where the cap screws into the hull, then I'll be ready to re-do the pluming under the deck....

After that, it's time to put the cap back on and get ready for the sanding and paint... That is IF I don't decide to paint the planing surface! I'd be a fool not to do it while I can though.

[illinoisfisherman]

Duke,

Ive got a "few" project boats when you get bored.

Good Luck with that project.

Those V-4 johnsons are everywhere for cheap money. I would never think about a new motor to replace one. Too many nice ones around.

[FUTCHCAIRO]

YEA DUKE, I BOUGHT A V-4 EVINRUDE THIS PAST SPRING FOR $800 THAT IS IN GREAT SHAPE IT IS A 140 AND HAS 140# COMPRESSION ON ALL 4 CYLINDERS, I PUT IT ON A AQUASPORT 21 FT. 1999 YEAR MODEL THAT MODEL BRAND NEW HAS 140# COMPRESSION . THE AQUASPORT WAS IN FAIR CONDITION WHEN I GOT IT AND I REBUILT THE ENTIRE BOAT, REPLACED THE FOAM, PUT IN ALUM. FUEL TANK, NEW STEERING, NEW SEATS AND ELECTRONICS. REPLACED THE SOLE ENCAPSULATED IN FIBERGLASS AND GEL COATED WITH SAND MIX FOR TRACTION. I HAVE NOT HAD A CHANCE TO PUT HER IN THE GULF YET BUT RAN HER FROM BAINBRIDGE DOWN TO THE DAM AT CHATTAHOOCHEE ON LAKE SEMINOLE THREE TIMES CHECKING OUT FUEL CONSUMPTION AND SPEED AT DIFF. THROTTLE SETTINGS. SHE CRUISES AT 44 MPH AT 2/3 THROTTLE AND AT THIS SPEED SHE GETS 3 MPG WHICH IS GREAT. I CAN NOT WAIT TO GET WELL SO I CAN TAKE HER OFF SHORE FOR SOME GROUPER. I HAD THIS BOAT SURVEYED AND HE PUT A PRICE OF $12,500.00 ON HER. EVERYTHING IS NEW EXCEPT THE BASIC HULL, LOOKS AND RUNS LIKE NEW. YOU CAN SAVE YOURSELF A BUNDLE OF MONEY GOING WITH THE OLD V-4 ENGINES, BUT LIKE ANY MARINE ENGINE ALWAYS RUN IT IN RIVER,LAKE OR GULF BEFORE PLUNKING DOWN THE MONEY, CHECK THE COMPRESSION TOO.

PA THE OLD MAN

[DukesFin]

I'm going to hang onto the V-6 Yamaha 150 I've got. With all of the water in the hull/foam and even compression at around 120 on all cylinders, the boat was running at 43mph at 5K rpm. I can't wait to find out what she'll do with all of the wet foam removed! I was getting just OVER 3mpg out on the gulf as well, so the wallet likes it too! I hear that the motor I've got has the least power/stress on the large 6-cyl block, and that's why they are considered "bullet proof". The motor isn't pretty, but she runs like a top and most importantly, I've run the motor enough to trust it for now!

I got the glass work done inside the hull, so now I need to flip the hull and do some minor repairs to the planing surface and then begin prepping for Interlux VC Performance Epoxy paint. Once that's cured, she gets flipped back and the cap goes on!!!

Truckin' on along!

[qoutrage]

[Tidedancer]

Sounds like you got her going Duke. Where is your warehouse? I may be heading north in a few days and will be in Lilburn a few days. I may drop by for an inspection. Just the address and zip and Google will find it.

[DukesFin]

It's just west of GA 400 off of exit 16 (Pilgrim Mill)... It's pretty far North, but I would love to show the project off if you want to make the drive!

Chuck, you've got an email from me...

[FishWithChris]

To find the needed height to add to the stringers, (I hate to say it now, so far into the project) figure out location of stringers through measurement of the deck and hull and do pinhole depth tests by laying the deck back down on the hull, ensuring its settled down, pinhole drill and measure to touch

[DukesFin]

Thanks galantnole, but I'm just going to put it back the way it was (EXCEPT for better "water-proofing" of the deck)!

The PO installed after-market rod holders towards the bow and there were no drains for them, so all rainwater went down into the foam, leaky fish box drains, hatches, etc... When I put her back together, she'll be water-tight for years!

Yesterday, I installed 2" tall rips of 1/4" oak ply as backing for the hull cap to screw into. I've got to coat those in resin. Once the cap goes back on, she's getting a good bead of 4200 to be sure that is sealed up well, then the rubrail goes back on.

[DeanMac]

Great job and good read

[illinoisfisherman]

Duke, sorry I thought you had a Johnson on that boat. Some of the earlier Japanese outboards were actually built using Johnson plans or patterns or something like that. If I ever had a motor go bad on a boat that could be pushed with a V4 Johnson that is where I would go. They run great and seemingly forever if minimally maintained.

Good luck again!

[DukesFin]

Thanks Ken!

[DukesFin]

Since I'm flipping the hull and doing some glasswork to the planing surface, I've decided to make a major change in my Furuno's transducer mounting. I'm going to make a plug using plaster of paris and the old high-speed fairing that used to be mounted and FLUSH MOUNT the ducer in the keel of the boat...

What I'm doing is just like this (but on a smaller scale as my ducer isn't as big as the one in the link):
http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw27.htm

The previous installation of the HS fairing was a hatchet job to say the least and I was going to buy a new fairing, but decided this would be cheaper and actually work a LOT better at reading the bottom when I'm going any faster than idle speed...

I'll be plugging the mold today and glassing it all up over the next few days. I'll take pictures of the process and post them...

[DukesFin]

Well, I made the plaster casting last night and it worked beautifully. No need for pictures of that as it's pretty straight forward. Today after work, I'll begin covering the plaster with poly resin and glass... Alternating pieces of CSM and cloth to build it up to be about 1/4 inch thick. Once that's done, I'll pop the plaster out, then grind it on the outside with 36 grit in preparation for the epoxy that I will use to bond it with the hull/keel.

I'll mount it to be about 3/16" below the keel so I can fair it out with epoxy resin and glass, starting with a fillet on both the inside and outside, then alternating layers of CSM and cloth, each layer larger than the previous. The "under side" will go about 5 or 6 inches out and will be faired to the hull, but the inside will go about 8 to 10 inches out. I'm using epoxy to actually mount the piece as I want to be sure I've got as good of a bond as possible between the housing and the hull... Nothing like cutting a 3.5 by 5 inch hole in the keel of your boat! I'm a bit lucky though that my keel is flat (about 4 or 5 inches wide) where I'll be installing this so it's going to be pretty easy for me to be sure I've got it mounted level and plumb.

THEN, I'll be ready to sand and paint the hull! (Unless I find other little "projects" to side-track my plan!!!)

[Ranaman]

YOU GO BOY!! Can't wait to see some more Pics Duke keep up the good work!