Home Air Conditioning Question

[Ron Wilson]

Have a 16- year old York A/C unit. Have a 2000 sqft house and 3-ton unit. Have had trouble over the last couple years with the unit and am thinking about biting the bullet and getting a new unit. Couple questions for our A/C experts:

- Will a 3.5 Ton provide more efficient service to the house.
- Have trouble at times cooling off or heating up the house. In addition to the upgrade in size of unit, would adding more vents help?
- A few companies in the Albany area offering different brands - are there any brands that need to be considered over others or any brands I need to avoid (i.e. Trane, York, Bryant, etc..)
- What is avg cost I should expect to pay to replace A/C and heat pump?

Thanks in advance.

[Salty Gator]

JT is the one to answer this one, I'm sure he will reply soon.

[reelhandy]

I'm not an AC expert, but one thing I do know is that a unit that is too large for your house is in some ways worse than a unit that is too small. The AC unit has to run to remove the moisture in the air not just the heat, which in Florida can be lots worse than the temperature. A unit that cools too fast will leave the moisture level up and that's not what you want. A 16 year old unit is very inefficient compared to the newer models, so a lower electric bill is something to look forward to if you decide to replace the York. Some folks say that all the brands use the same basic parts, like Copeland Scroll Compressors, so just go for the best price, but I don't know....I'm partial to Carrier and Trane.

[Ron Wilson]

I'm not an AC expert, but one thing I do know is that a unit that is too large for your house is in some ways worse than a unit that is too small. The AC unit has to run to remove the moisture in the air not just the heat, which in Florida can be lots worse than the temperature. A unit that cools too fast will leave the moisture level up and that's not what you want. A 16 year old unit is very inefficient compared to the newer models, so a lower electric bill is something to look forward to if you decide to replace the York. Some folks say that all the brands use the same basic parts, like Copeland Scroll Compressors, so just go for the best price, but I don't know....I'm partial to Carrier and Trane.

Thanks RH. More efficient unit = lower electic bills is definitely a consideration at this point.

[RodBow]

Not Lennox

[Jumptrout51]

Is your house off grade?
One story or two?
How well insulated?
Do you have gas supply at your house?
How many return ducts?
Attic or closet installation on the air handler?
Double pane insulated windows and doors?

[Ron Wilson]

JT,

- Not sure what you mean by "off-grade."
- One story, slab foundation.
- It's a spec house in a subdivision, so I'm assuming the minimum required.
- No gas supply. Have heard a combo of gas and elec is the best...should I consider a gas source during the upgrade - or is the juice not worth the squeeze in existing houses without existing source?
- One return duct. Have 10 total vents: 1 in each of the three Bdrms, 2 in Liv Room, 1 in Dining Room, 1 in Kitchen, 1 in laundry room and 2 in bathrooms (one in each).
- Double pane windows and doors.

Thanks.

[Jumptrout51]

I would recommend a heat pump with a 95% efficiency gas furnace.
Adding returns 12X12 in each bedroom.
I lieu of a heat load calculation on your home I would recommend 1 ton cooling per 500-700 square feet.
That would be a 3 1/2 to 4 ton Heat Pump.
I would also recommend a 15 SEER system or better. Minimum will be 13 SEER.
So far as brand recommendations go,there is not a company out there that has not had issues with components in their systems.
Most of those issues have been indoor coil related.
To my knowledge no system is Made in America anymore.
They are assembled in America.
Locally you could expect to pay around $7,000.00 and up.

[Jumptrout51]

Not Lennox

[Ron Wilson]

I would recommend a heat pump with a 95% efficiency gas furnace.
Adding returns 12X12 in each bedroom.
I lieu of a heat load calculation on your home I would recommend 1 ton cooling per 500-700 square feet.
That would be a 3 1/2 to 4 ton Heat Pump.
I would also recommend a 15 SEER system or better. Minimum will be 13 SEER.
So far as brand recommendations go,there is not a company out there that has not had issues with components in their systems.
Most of those issues have been indoor coil related.
To my knowledge no system is Made in America anymore.
They are assembled in America.
Locally you could expect to pay around $7,000.00 and up.

Thanks JT. I need to do some looking around. Got a quote of $3,500 for 3.5t unit with recommendation for adding vents ($100/vent). Wondered where that quote was relative to what I would be getting and wanted to get some other ideas (like adding returns and gas).

[MarkM]

JT, Would a heat pump system be economical up in Albany?

[Jumptrout51]

JT, Would a heat pump system be economical up in Albany?

Yes it would,especially with the gas furnace I recommended.

[Jumptrout51]

That price Ron would be for a builders grade 13 SEER unit and probably re-using refrigerant lines,drain pan,etc.
IF your refrigerant lines are large enough for a 410A refrigerant system they at minimum have to be flushed out with R-11 and re-insulated with 1/2 inch Armaflex.
They should be replaced with new copper.

[Jumptrout51]

P.S. Your existing duct description is adequate.
What you need is add returns to each bedroom.
I am not familiar with Georgia code,but returns in every room(except bathrooms and kitchen) is code in Florida.

[What a mess]

It may be incorrect I have a good friend in the business for many years. He says to add a dehumidifier in your system and you can run you house 4 degrees warmer and it will feel just as cool. Robert Smith, owner Smith Heating and air.229-251-7914