Cranking/Electronics battery
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Cranking/Electronics battery
I've been running a Blue Top Optima in my Duracraft for cranking and for the electronics (gps, sounder, vhf, Power Pole, etc) and I'm not thrilled with the life I have gotten versus how much they cost. Need a suggestion for a cranking battery (90hp 2 stroke Yammie) and the above electronics.
Stay Thirsty My Friends
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Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
Is it the one with the canaster looking cells? If so, many were recalled.
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
For AGMs I understand that the Sears batteries get good reviews on some major marine blogs, not cheap but less costly I think than the Blue Tops. I'm running two Blue Tops with one running the house side and the other a dedicated start. I also have the Yamaha isolator lead that charges the house battery when running but keeps it isolated from the start side. Curious what your charger setup is if you are having issues as life cycle vs. cost was/is one of my concerns with the blue tops.
2008 Key West 196 Bay Reef
2008 Yamaha 150
2008 Yamaha 150
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Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
SPORTS ATHORITY HAS A GREAT BUY ON STARTING AND TROLLING BATTERIES. 900 AMP STARTING BAT. IS ON SALE FOR $40 AND GET ADDITIONAL REBATE OF $10 WHEN YOU MAIL IN THE COPY OF THE SALES SLIP.
PA
SEMPER FI
PA
SEMPER FI
FUTCHCAIRO
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Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
I have had good luck with Interstate marine batteries.
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
AGMs = Sears Platinum. Lead Acid = Interstate Marine. AGMs really want to be fully re-charged after use so if you aren't putting them on a quality charger when you get home then you are probably shortening the life of your batteries. I have a set of Blue Tops for my trolling motor that are going on 5 yrs now and a Sears Platinum for a cranking battery going on 3 yrs. Both have been good but I have them on an plug in on-board charger because I don't make long enough runs on the water to properly re-charge them. If you don't put your batteries on a charger, I'd stick with the lead acid batteries. They seem to be better suited for charging off an alternator and less expensive to boot.
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
I second demons comment about agm batteries. Unless you are going to be able to leave them on charge stay with lead acid.
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
DEMON wrote:AGMs = Sears Platinum. Lead Acid = Interstate Marine. AGMs really want to be fully re-charged after use so if you aren't putting them on a quality charger when you get home then you are probably shortening the life of your batteries. I have a set of Blue Tops for my trolling motor that are going on 5 yrs now and a Sears Platinum for a cranking battery going on 3 yrs. Both have been good but I have them on an plug in on-board charger because I don't make long enough runs on the water to properly re-charge them. If you don't put your batteries on a charger, I'd stick with the lead acid batteries. They seem to be better suited for charging off an alternator and less expensive to boot.
Nice to hear, I just added battery switch and M-K digital onboard charger for the house/start batteries so hoping I can get that kind of life out of mine! Also if any other Yammie owners are interested in the isolator cable you can see it here http://www.simyamaha.com/Yamaha_Isolato ... -0l-ed.htm basically it just connects to an existing plug on the engine and when the start battery shows full charge the engine charges the alternate battery but keeps them isolated so that they don't discharge from the other batteries loads i.e. the start battery can't discharge from house loads. From my understanding it can actually charge both at the same time but priority goes to the start battery. It uses the same alternator output so not additional charging capacity just redirected/split.
2008 Key West 196 Bay Reef
2008 Yamaha 150
2008 Yamaha 150
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
Sears AGM Platinum for Electronics: http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-m ... 850131000P
Cranking, I picked up a Group 31 at Oreilly Auto Parts - They're Deka Batteries and it's a Deep Cycle Cranking and it was about $100. I still have two Group 27 batteries on their 3rd season from Oreilly's (Deka) and going strong.
Cranking, I picked up a Group 31 at Oreilly Auto Parts - They're Deka Batteries and it's a Deep Cycle Cranking and it was about $100. I still have two Group 27 batteries on their 3rd season from Oreilly's (Deka) and going strong.
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
$40...that's a strong price PA!!FUTCHCAIRO wrote:SPORTS ATHORITY HAS A GREAT BUY ON STARTING AND TROLLING BATTERIES. 900 AMP STARTING BAT. IS ON SALE FOR $40 AND GET ADDITIONAL REBATE OF $10 WHEN YOU MAIL IN THE COPY OF THE SALES SLIP.
PA
SEMPER FI
Stay Thirsty My Friends
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
I use Interstate. They work for me.
Re: Cranking/Electronics battery
Makes good sense, I don't trickle charge my Blue Top so it probably has shortened it's life span. Thinking I will go with Interstate. Where is the best place to buy?DEMON wrote:AGMs = Sears Platinum. Lead Acid = Interstate Marine. AGMs really want to be fully re-charged after use so if you aren't putting them on a quality charger when you get home then you are probably shortening the life of your batteries. I have a set of Blue Tops for my trolling motor that are going on 5 yrs now and a Sears Platinum for a cranking battery going on 3 yrs. Both have been good but I have them on an plug in on-board charger because I don't make long enough runs on the water to properly re-charge them. If you don't put your batteries on a charger, I'd stick with the lead acid batteries. They seem to be better suited for charging off an alternator and less expensive to boot.
Stay Thirsty My Friends