Carolina Skiff water in hull

[countrycorners]

I have reason to believe theres water in my foam filled hull. I understand this is common issue, treated by drilling drain holes on the hull. My assumption is that the thickness of the bottom hull would be a bit less than the distance from the bottom of the pictured factory bilge drain hole and the bottom. Anyone have experience with this?

[FUTCHCAIRO]

HEY C.C., I ALWAYS STOP BY IAMONIA LAKE AND LEAVE THE DRAIN PLUG OUT TO LET FRESH WATER RUN INTO THE BOTTOM OF MY BOAT, WHILE I AM THERE I CRANK THE MOTOR AND LET IT RUN FOR ABUT 5 MINUTES. WHEN I PULL OUT AND HEAD TO THE SOUTH 40 I STOP OUT ON A TERRACE WITH THE BOW OF THE BOAT UP IN THE AIR AND LET IT DRAIN WHILE I CLEAN THE FISH, IF I DO NOT CATCH ANYTHING, I LET IT DRAIN WHILE I EAT SUPPER, WHEN I BACK THE BOAT IN THE SHOP, I ALWAYS PUT THE JACK UP ON A 4X4 BOARD UNTILL I USE THE BOAT AGAIN. IF YOU DO NOT DO SOMETHING SIMILAR THE FOAM WILL GET WATER LOGGED ON THE OLDER FIBER-GLASS BOATS AND WEIGH A TON. THIS IS THE REASON THERE ARE SO MANY TRAILER TIRES BLOWN OUT ON THE ROAD, THE BOAT HAS GAINED MAYBE AS MUCH AS A COUPLE THOUSAND POUNDS. NOT MUCH YOU CAN DO NOW IF THE FOAM HAS GOTTEN SATURATED AND DRIED OUT MANY TIMES. I HAD THIS HAPPEN TO ME MANY YEARS AGO WHEN FIGERGLASS BOATS WERE FIRST INTRODUCED. THAT IS ONE OF THE MAIN REASONS I PREFER ALUM BOATS, ALSO TAKES A LOT LESS GAS TO HAUL THEM DOWN THE ROAD.
PA
SEMPER FI

[bman]

I have not had this problem but remember reading about it on on old Carolina Skiff owners site.
Just to make sure you have water in there you could weigh the boat and compare the wait to the factory specifications.
Most dumps and truck stops have scales you can drive your rig on.
Deduct the weight of the trailer and the motor and you have a rough number.


There is usually a bilge well inside the Carolina skiff.. You could drill into the sides of that rather than the back of the hull.
Then let it drain for a long time.... a long time like a month.

[countrycorners]

There is usually a bilge well inside the Carolina skiff.. You could drill into the sides of that rather than the back of the hull.
Then let it drain for a long time.... a long time like a month.

We're on the same wave length.
You probably know about drilling "garboard holes" in the transom to drain the hull. Carolinaskiffowners.com has lots of talk about this treatment (probably not a cure), But I've not seen any confirmation about how thick the bottom is, thus my question. I'd want to know how thick the bottom is so that the bottom of a garboard drain hole would be just above it.
I asked on this forum because I spend more time here than at CSO and would prefer a local opinion.
Anyway, I was thinking I'd prefer not to drill holes below the waterline and that the drilling of holes inside the bilge well should accomplish the same thing.
What I would do is pass a 1/2 inch or so drill bit through the bilge drain hole into the forward wall of the bilge well, drilling through the foam and barriers 6' or so toward the console.
Was your suggestion based on hearing about someone that used the bilge well approach successfully??

[MudDucker]

There is usually a bilge well inside the Carolina skiff.. You could drill into the sides of that rather than the back of the hull.
Then let it drain for a long time.... a long time like a month.

We're on the same wave length.
You probably know about drilling "garboard holes" in the transom to drain the hull. Carolinaskiffowners.com has lots of talk about this treatment (probably not a cure), But I've not seen any confirmation about how thick the bottom is, thus my question. I'd want to know how thick the bottom is so that the bottom of a garboard drain hole would be just above it.
I asked on this forum because I spend more time here than at CSO and would prefer a local opinion.
Anyway, I was thinking I'd prefer not to drill holes below the waterline and that the drilling of holes inside the bilge well should accomplish the same thing.
What I would do is pass a 1/2 inch or so drill bit through the bilge drain hole into the forward wall of the bilge well, drilling through the foam and barriers 6' or so toward the console.
Was your suggestion based on hearing about someone that used the bilge well approach successfully??

I've done this on a boat other than a CS before. Your best is drill holes on both sides of the drain basin as close to the transom as you can, then elevate the front of boat to cause the water to seep toward the transom.

[countrycorners]

I've done this on a boat other than a CS before. Your best is drill holes on both sides of the drain basin as close to the transom as you can, then elevate the front of boat to cause the water to seep toward the transom.

I wrote out a reply and it didn't show up so I'm replying again. I apologize if there are 2 replies!

My reasoning is that drilling a hole in the front wall of the bilge well is quick and easy and will provide quick access to a few of the sections towards the bow. Drill the hole & inspect the foam that comes out. If its dry, plug the hole and declare victory. If water comes out or even if the foam is damp , drill holes in the sides of the bilge well to drain that section next to the transom. I don't own a right angle drill motor so I want to do this second rather than first.
Thanks for your comment!

[MudDucker]

I've done this on a boat other than a CS before. Your best is drill holes on both sides of the drain basin as close to the transom as you can, then elevate the front of boat to cause the water to seep toward the transom.

I wrote out a reply and it didn't show up so I'm replying again. I apologize if there are 2 replies!

My reasoning is that drilling a hole in the front wall of the bilge well is quick and easy and will provide quick access to a few of the sections towards the bow. Drill the hole & inspect the foam that comes out. If its dry, plug the hole and declare victory. If water comes out or even if the foam is damp , drill holes in the sides of the bilge well to drain that section next to the transom. I don't own a right angle drill motor so I want to do this second rather than first.
Thanks for your comment!

Gotcha, good luck!

[countrycorners]

Took a good look at that bilge well & pulled the pump. Wouldn't you know the pump base is stuck to the floor with 3M 5200. The base sits between the transom drain and the front wall of the well. It will take some time to get it out of the way, suspect I'll destroy it in the process. I' m moving the project down the list, pushing it off to fall/winter!!


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[mirage2521]

Remember your Carolina Skiff is made of dozens of individual cells of foam approximately 4 inches by 4 inches. Each cell is independent of the cells next to it. If you drill your transom or you pump well inside the boat the only thing you are going drain is the one cell that you have drilled into. Someone earlier posted your best first step. Go weigh you boat on the trailer with everything our of it that you can remove. Launch your boat, then go weigh your trailer, go the the manufacturer's website and get the weight of your motor, look up all your other bolt on stuff online and get the shipping weights. Take all those number and subtract them from your first weight.

If it turns out you do have significant water in your hull the only way to remove it in most CS boats is to use a flex auger bit with extensions to drill through each and every cell that you suspect might have water in it. Tilt the boat up and let it drain until it stops draining. This might take a day and it might take a month. These are usually the cells that have improperly sealed screw holes in the from people installing stuff on their deck.

[Gitsum]

Carolina skiff stringers run port to starboard, cut a 6" wide strip out of the floor , bow to stern and place in sun till foam at strip opening is dry, may take many months to dry................but alternative is to scrap it.