What would I use to fill a couple of very small holes in the transom on an alum boat that the salt has eaten thru?
Also what caulk or other product can be used to seal where the carpet meets the console metal that wouldn't stay "sticky" ? I used clear silicone caulk but not happy with the result.
Sea Gurl
Pits in aluminum
Moderators: bman, Chalk, Tom Keels
Is the best I have found for aluminum repair
you need to check your Zincs and see if they need replacing and check for ways that the water is getting into the transom. If you have pin holes, there is probably some thin or weak metal around the holes also 
I know RMS in Medart carries the alum. repair stuff and can recomend a good marine adesive for the caulking 
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Fisherman989
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- Location: Moultrie, Ga
Pin Holes
My aluminum bass boat...which is what I use for saltwater....developed pin holes an the transom.....and unknown to me....one more "big" hole in the forward part of the bottom. I knew it leaked badly...but couldn't find the hole. I had to pump it out several times per trip.
I finally found the hole.....and used JB Weld to take care of it.
Used that on the pin holes on the transom too. It works great. Boat doesn't leak no more.
I finally found the hole.....and used JB Weld to take care of it.
Used that on the pin holes on the transom too. It works great. Boat doesn't leak no more.
You guys are great 
Thanks for the info. Thankfully the boat doesn't leak yet and that's the way I want to keep it! I will certainly check these products out soon.
The only zinc I know of is the one on the lower unit and from what I'm told it will wear down over time - but it's still there after 5 yrs - so when does it need replacing - I have the motor serviced yearly and they've never mentioned replacing it?
SG
Thanks for the info. Thankfully the boat doesn't leak yet and that's the way I want to keep it! I will certainly check these products out soon.The only zinc I know of is the one on the lower unit and from what I'm told it will wear down over time - but it's still there after 5 yrs - so when does it need replacing - I have the motor serviced yearly and they've never mentioned replacing it?
SG
Don't think so - will check into it - I was going to ask mechanic why cylinders are showing worsening rust areas on t & t. Maybe that's why.I may have spoken incorectly earlier 
I KNOW, I KNOW, IT'S DOUBTFULL 
Here is a tidbit of info I found 
Why you should use Reliance sacrificial zinc anodes that conform to the U.S. Military Specifications for zinc anode alloy.
The current U.S. Military Specification, A18001K, is the result of extensive studies and experimentation carried out by corrosion scientists for more than forty years. Prior to the mid 1950s, corrosion prevention for underwater hulls and fittings, based on zinc sacrificial anodes, was not particularly reliable. No one could explain why one vessel using these anodes would suffer little to no corrosion of its underwater metals while another similar vessel using zinc anodes that appeared to be the same would receive extensive corrosion damage. Subsequent studies indicated that some zinc anodes did not remain electrochemically active, becoming relatively inert (passivated) over time due to a buildup of a dense, tightly adherent film on the zinc's surface. The passivating film's principal constituents were oxides of iron and the source of the iron was the elemental iron present in the zinc when the anodes were manufactured.
These studies determined that the maximum allowable iron content for reliable sacrificial zinc anode performance was 0.0014 percent. Hence, the first U.S. Military zinc anode specification, A18001A, was born. This specification also limited several other contaminating elements such as copper and silicon, but excessive iron was the main cause of anode passivation. To produce anodes that met the specification, manufactures had to start with the purest grade of zinc available from the smelters (Special High Grade) and not contaminate it while producing the anodes. This was, and is, very difficult to do.
Work continued on the problem over the years with metallurgists seeking an alloy that would perform as or more reliably than Super High Grade zinc and be easier to produce. They discovered that by alloying the zinc with small amounts of the elements aluminum and cadmium, an increased amount of iron could be tolerated. So, the sacrificial anode specification was changed to allow an increase in the iron content to 0.005 percent. Zinc anodes meeting this new specification and all of the subsequent specifications form a loosely adherent film that is principally zinc oxide. This film will readily slough off the anode's surface to expose fresh zinc alloy to the water, allowing the anode to be continuously electrochemically active. Thus, the zinc will not passivate. It is only through continuous electrochemical action at its surface that a zinc anode can provide corrosion protection for the metal structure to which it is attached. Installing zinc anodes that are not certified to meet the current U.S. Military Specification runs the risk that the anodes will be contaminated and will fail to protect the metals to which they are attached.
I KNOW, I KNOW, IT'S DOUBTFULL Here is a tidbit of info I found Why you should use Reliance sacrificial zinc anodes that conform to the U.S. Military Specifications for zinc anode alloy.
The current U.S. Military Specification, A18001K, is the result of extensive studies and experimentation carried out by corrosion scientists for more than forty years. Prior to the mid 1950s, corrosion prevention for underwater hulls and fittings, based on zinc sacrificial anodes, was not particularly reliable. No one could explain why one vessel using these anodes would suffer little to no corrosion of its underwater metals while another similar vessel using zinc anodes that appeared to be the same would receive extensive corrosion damage. Subsequent studies indicated that some zinc anodes did not remain electrochemically active, becoming relatively inert (passivated) over time due to a buildup of a dense, tightly adherent film on the zinc's surface. The passivating film's principal constituents were oxides of iron and the source of the iron was the elemental iron present in the zinc when the anodes were manufactured.
These studies determined that the maximum allowable iron content for reliable sacrificial zinc anode performance was 0.0014 percent. Hence, the first U.S. Military zinc anode specification, A18001A, was born. This specification also limited several other contaminating elements such as copper and silicon, but excessive iron was the main cause of anode passivation. To produce anodes that met the specification, manufactures had to start with the purest grade of zinc available from the smelters (Special High Grade) and not contaminate it while producing the anodes. This was, and is, very difficult to do.
Work continued on the problem over the years with metallurgists seeking an alloy that would perform as or more reliably than Super High Grade zinc and be easier to produce. They discovered that by alloying the zinc with small amounts of the elements aluminum and cadmium, an increased amount of iron could be tolerated. So, the sacrificial anode specification was changed to allow an increase in the iron content to 0.005 percent. Zinc anodes meeting this new specification and all of the subsequent specifications form a loosely adherent film that is principally zinc oxide. This film will readily slough off the anode's surface to expose fresh zinc alloy to the water, allowing the anode to be continuously electrochemically active. Thus, the zinc will not passivate. It is only through continuous electrochemical action at its surface that a zinc anode can provide corrosion protection for the metal structure to which it is attached. Installing zinc anodes that are not certified to meet the current U.S. Military Specification runs the risk that the anodes will be contaminated and will fail to protect the metals to which they are attached.
SEA GURL
SEA GURL, IF YOU WILL BACK YOUR BOAT DOWN INTO THE FRESH WATER POND JUST NORTH OF THE LIGHTHOUSE POOL , AND RUN THE GAS OUT OF THE CARBS, THIS WILL PRESERVE YOUR KICKER AS WELL AS THE ALUM. BOAT. I HAVE A ALUM. TRAILER THAT WE HAVE USED SEVERAL TIMES A WEEK FOR THE LAST 15 YRS, EACH TIME WE HIT SALT WATER WE FIND SOMEPLACE WHERE WE CAN BACK DOWN INTO FRESH WATER AND RINSE THE KICKER AND TRAILER, THIS IS MUCH BETTER THAN TRYING TO WASH DOWN WITH A HOSE AND TAKE A LOT LESS TIME. HOPE THIS MIGHT HELP SOME.
PA
PA
As if an ole man like me ain't got enough to worry about. Now I can look forward to my "anode passivating." 
