How do I dry the inside of my transom?

[Fighting Conch]

I could use some advice on a moisture problem.

Over the years the transom drain on my old whaler, circa 1978, got chewed-up to where the copper drain tube fit loosely and small amounts water began infiltrating into the hull. So last night I wrestled the old tube out (which was about 10" long) and installed two two garboard drain plugs which I was able to connect together with a segment of rubber hose of the kind used on heavy equipment. Since the hose diameter was just a tiny bit larger than the backside opening of the garboards I was able to screw it in snugly on either end and coat with a sealer so it looks like I have a solution to drain problem.

But I still have moisture inside the hull and am wondering how to dry it out. Is there a drying product I can funnel in? Or should I let it sit open for a few weeks without the garboards? Or maybe pay one of the offspring to point a hair dryer into the drain for a few hours? Or maybe ignore the whole situation under the logic that the boat is pretty well beaten-up yet very solid?

[tin can]

Even your old whaler is built using an injection process. There is no "open" space between the hull and liner. However, the foam in there will absorb moisture. I suspect you have moisture in the foam throughout the bottom of the boat, as well as in the transom. If there is water in there, it's in there. I've never heard of a means to sucessfully remove the water. If it still runs OK, I wouldnt worry about water in the foam. What I would worry about is water in the wood in the transom. If the transom is soft, or spongy, the wood has deteriated. The proper way to remedy the problem is to take it to a very good boat repair service. That's gonna be pricey. An alternative is to use 2 large aluminum plates, one inside the boat, and one outside the boat.

[Sir reel]

I was afraid that what TC said was what you were going to hear. That was my opinion as well but I was sure that a voice with much more credibility than mine would surface. The only thing I would add to what TC said is that the two aluminum sheets should wrap around the corners and be through bolted. (imo) The reason being that IF the transom has water, it will deteriorate (it's not an if but WHEN it does) and the weaker it becomes the more likely it will be that cracks and separation will become evident at the corners. In other words, given enough deteriation in the transom and stress from the motor, tilt, etc, the transom is gonna separate from the sides at some point. That is why I would suggest that what ever reinforcement/modifications you do, include bonding/attachment onto the sides of the hull. As evidence of the degree of moisture that has been captured in the foam, be on the lookout for blisters (bubbles) appearing beneath the gelcoat. Could be on the outside or the inside of the hull. This process could take years to manifest it's self...so as TC said

If it still runs OK, I wouldnt worry about water in the foam