local shop that can put cup in prop???

[T Smith]

Does anybody know if we have a local or semi-local place inTallahassee that can add cup to a stainless three blade??

[birddog]

TinCan's got a hammer and a trailer ball. Seems to work for him.

[AJ]

I don't know of one locally but Marine Wheels in PC does a fine job.

[tin can]

Stewart Enterprises
Attn.: Farley Stewart
9260 Lee Road # 146
Opelika, AL 36804

Ph: 334/745-5653

Not exactly local, but he's the best.

[RiverRunner]

2nd..... Marine wheels in PC. Their number is (850)763-2889. I have worked with them and they do an excellent job.

[What a mess]

gator prop is great and cheap and quick
they are outside perry Florida on the road to spring warrior

# is listed

[T Smith]

Thanks guys, that gives me three options, one oughta work out.

I have one more question.

How do you tell what pitch your prop is? I have a stainless rapture but can't find any number stamped into it anywhere.

Also if I did know the pitch, is there a general rule of thumb when going from a 3 blade to a four blade? Its for a 40 Yamaha on a flat bottom sunnel skiff. I'm trying to get rid of some ventilation at top end and in the turns.

Has anybody had any experience with the composite props? It seems like if you hit a rock it would shatter but I'd hate to spend the money on a stainless and have it not perform well. I figure I could try the composite and if it works buy the same stainless and then have a spare.

Ok, that was three more questions.

[SHOWBOAT]

No prop expert some people here may disagree with the following, but composite props are what people run in the shallow water lakes in OH and the following are the rationale they provide. A few advantages are 1) they are cheaper to replace 2) the flex under pressure which allows for quickness out of the hole (not as much HP required to start spinning) 3) they break easily (usually before bending shafts or other significant damage occurs).

A couple disadvantages are 1) the break easy (require replacement more frequently) 2) they flex under pressure (doesn't give you the same top end as stainless).

[tin can]

T, take the prop off the motor and look at both ends of the hub. There should be a part number and diameter/pitch cast into the hub.

Check with the prop manufacturer when going from a 3 blade to a 4 blade. I went from a 3 blade Stilletto to a 4 blade Turbo flats 4. Both props are made by the same company. They told me to drop at least 2" in pitch when going to the 4 blade.

If you're venting on top end, the motor may be trimmed too much, or set too high. You can add some cup to your present prop and eliminate some of that. With enough of the right cupping, you can run with the prop half out of the water and it won't slip. Farley Stewart can do that for you. That's what he specializes in.

[Chalk]

I am using the same prop that tincan is using and if your going to a 4 blade drop down two pitches...that is if you are running the correct rpms at WOT.

With the boat you have you should be able to run in morning dew, with very little motor below the boat. I don't think your running a jack plate but this is how Capt Billy sets his up.



You can see the cavitation plate is well above the water and the prop is almost half out.

[T Smith]

Thanks guys, I checked in the prop for numbers last time I had it off but couldn't find any I'll look harder next time.
I'm going to focus on adjusting this thing top get it right this year. I can't remember what RPMs its running at WOT and I cant remember what the book said it's supposed to be at, but I do remember it being about 500 RPMs lower than the specs in the book. The prop came on the motor when I bought it so I have no idea what it is and if its even appropriate for the flat bottom XF. Also since its all homemade I dont know if maybe the 500 RPMs are lost in the throttle linkage or any other adjustment that may not be set up just right. I have a jack plate but its manual so I'm adjusting it a little different each time I go out. It seems to run better the higher it is, in fact when its too low water spalshes up all over and it seems to slow the boat down. I dont have it as high as those pics but the Cavitation plate is about an inch above the top of the tunnel. I put one of those Bobs plates on it and that helped, I wish id of seen those bigger plates like the ones the run on the tunnel boats in LA and TX.

So I guess what I need to do is find the pitch of the current prop and figure out what change in pitch will take me up 500 RPMs or so and then drop down in pitch to find the right 4 blade. Id like to try running a 4 blade while Ii ship the three blade off to Farley Stewart.

[Chalk]

500 rpms isn't nothing much to worry about....the pitch and diameter should be on the prop, might have to pull it off to check it out....with the four blade you will be able to move the motor higher, which will increase your rpms

[T Smith]

Thanks Chalk, then I'll assume the prop I have is the right pitch and drop it 2 and get a 4 blade to see what that does. Once I get a trailer that fits better I'm gonna start saving for a power jack plate.

Running in the morning dew sounds fun, and redfishy!!

Also are there any of those small white BBF.net stickers left? I need some for my new truck.