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So casting distance is the same? I still don't get why the duct tape on the spool. What advantage is that?

The braid should cast further, way further and the tape or mono backing is so the braid doesn't slip on the spool.

10lb power pro with about 20 yards of 12lb backing is all I ever use on all my inshore stuff. All the bull reds I caught this last weekend were caught on this setup and it never lets me down.

I understand the duct tape thing, but why waste such expensive line. What is the benefit of putting a whole role of Power Pro on a 2500 or 3000 series reel??? The line closest to the spool will eventually rot and weeken. You will never use the bottom half any way, you just need it there for distance purposes. I put as much mono backing on my reels as I can so that I can get as much out of a Power Pro roll as possible (mono is cheap, PP is not). I can get two 2500 reels spooled with 10lb power pro (2lb diameter) and have never had a problem running out of line. Think about it, that is 150 yrds of PP on each reel.... have any of you ever had a red or trout burn out that much line??

If so, then you may want to tighten that drag.

Oh, and I do tie a 15lb 4ft mono leader to my braid for a shock resistance. When it comes to topwater, I will only throw a baitcaster. The only thing that goes on a spinning outfit is a stick bait (Bomber, Redfin, etc.)

Save your money, wrap it with mono!!!!

....my take.

captkeyser wrote:I understand the duct tape thing, but why waste such expensive line. What is the benefit of putting a whole role of Power Pro on a 2500 or 3000 series reel??? The line closest to the spool will eventually rot and weeken. You will never use the bottom half any way, you just need it there for distance purposes. I put as much mono backing on my reels as I can so that I can get as much out of a Power Pro roll as possible (mono is cheap, PP is not). I can get two 2500 reels spooled with 10lb power pro (2lb diameter) and have never had a problem running out of line. Think about it, that is 150 yrds of PP on each reel.... have any of you ever had a red or trout burn out that much line??

If so, then you may want to tighten that drag.

Oh, and I do tie a 15lb 4ft mono leader to my braid for a shock resistance. When it comes to topwater, I will only throw a baitcaster. The only thing that goes on a spinning outfit is a stick bait (Bomber, Redfin, etc.)

Save your money, wrap it with mono!!!!

....my take.

It isn't gold Cuz! $12.00 a box and you know it is right. I have never had any rot on the spool? And All I see for 10lb is a 150 yard box anyway? Come on Capt.....you need a Georgia boy to teach you how to spool a reel? Just messing with you. I see what you are saying but I just feel beter with a whole spool because I have had some runs that run past 100 yards if you are in deep water.

I here ya Natureboy!!! I quess you're right about the 150yd box..... well then I have been putting 75yrds on my 2500's and STILL have never had a problem. Now deep water is a different story, I agree. But for trout and reds, 1/4 mono 3/4's braid will do.

What happens when you get a wind knot 40 yards out and can't clear it?

BayGator wrote:What happens when you get a wind knot 40 yards out and can't clear it?

Cuss (alot)

If you get wind knots you are doing something wrong.

I, like Baygator prefer to use 20 to 30 yards of 10 or 12lb mono backing instead of the duct tape. Yep you will save a little braid but whats left over on a 150yard spool ain't really worth barking about. I use this setup on both my casting and spinning reels with a 48", 20lb flurocarbon leader for topwater, jigging, etc And yes, the braid seems to cast further and you experience virtually no line stretch.

Tom Keels wrote:If you get wind knots you are doing something wrong.

That why I prefer 20lb but mostly 30lb PowerPro, no wind knots....but have had them with the 10lb...just my preference though.

Tom Keels wrote:If you get wind knots you are doing something wrong.

Please explain this?

You are not closing the reel with your hand and making sure the line is tight before reeling slack, and/or your roller bearing on your reel is messed up or non-existent. I cannot remember the last time I got one.

Great thread! Power Pro is the best in my opinion. SENSITIVITY and the fact that it floats is why I like it. Very nice for mending after a LONG cast in fast current situations. I would go with the larger spool and rotate it end for end at half time. Its a long half time even fishing oysters. Wind knots not so much if your reel is made for braid, someone tangles you and you lose a bit and you will start seeing mono backer before the line is old enough to change. Who is fishing Red is my question, do the fish seem less spooky?

FYI. If you tie braid to mono backing, then the line class is the highest line on the spool according to IGFA. You are permitted to partially fill the spool with mono, dacron, etc. to take up space on the reel, provided the backing is then covered by tape. The braid top shot is then tied on top of the tape.

If you're not worried about potentially losing a world record fish, then disregard the above. Most braided line over-tests anyway. For example, 8-pound braid typically breaks about 10 pounds plus, etc.