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Gulf Coast wrote:Don't know how big the crack is but JT's right I've seen it done. "Cuz" can weld anything

He told me one time he could weld an airplane.....in flight!

rocket wrote:

Gulf Coast wrote:Don't know how big the crack is but JT's right I've seen it done. "Cuz" can weld anything

He told me one time he could weld an airplane.....in flight!

HAHAHa, I believe it!

Just talked to boat guy and insurance guy. Reman foot, new nose cone, new SS prop. I can keep the old prop and it is repairable, so I will have a spare.

Anyone from Gadsden County, I can't say enough about Speed and Custom Marine. The guy does great work and is busy, but my duck boat will function for the flats until it is fixed. New time estimate is now 2 weeks, mostly waiting on the nose cone. One positive is that I am getting a low water instead of the older shallow water nose cone, so I should be able to run the jack plate higher like it is meant to do.

I think I am just gonna get my duck boat set up for the Aucilla and use it when I go there. It is a 1652 with a 125 bottom and has a 35 Prodive surface drive motor, so it should do great on the flats. It'll run 27 with 2 guys and fishing gear.

Oh yeah, I did not see if anyone answered, does Porter's do props?

Gator props in Perry.

rgr. thanks

onefishtwofish wrote:Just talked to boat guy and insurance guy. Reman foot, new nose cone, new SS prop.

Do you know where the re-manufactured lower unit is coming from? Not trying to scare you, but unless it's coming from the outboard manufacturer, they usually don't hold up. Most aftermarket REMAN companies require you send them a core. That means your mechanic is probably going to send your damaged lower unit to them. Someone else will wind up with your old unit. That, at least to me, raises the question of "What shape was the unit I'm getting in before it was rebuilt?" I would also guess that if you send it to Bob's for a nose cone you'll void any warranty you might get with a REMAN unit.

Yes to both. It is direct from Mercury reman unit. He said he really does not like the Chinese reman units as they do not hold up. I realize that the nose cone voids the warranty (he told me this), but I need the nose cone to run the boat right. I realize it is a gamble, but it seems like everything I buy takes a dump the day after any warranty ends, be it 3 years or 30 years. Thanks to all for the advice.

I searched and found out you're running a 19' Ranger flats boat. What motor and prop, and how are you set up?

2000 Ranger Cayman 184, Mercury 2001 200HP (I forget the model number- it is carbed) with a hydraulic Jack Plate, now will have the low water nose cone (4 holes on the bottom) as opposed to the one with 2 holes in the bottom, but the upper intake still open), Bennet Trim tabs.
Prop is a Mercury Tempest. I believe it is 19, 3 blade prop-hole shot is fine, not an issue.

I really don't care about overall speed, 30-35 is my cruising speed. I just want to be running efficiently for maximum fuel mileage.

Oh yeah, the powerhead is 2004

I am a noob to outboards, other than the little uns. If you want to talk about mudmotors, I am well versed in those!

onefishtwofish wrote:2000 Ranger Cayman 184, Mercury 2001 200HP (I forget the model number- it is carbed) with a hydraulic Jack Plate, now will have the low water nose cone (4 holes on the bottom) as opposed to the one with 2 holes in the bottom, but the upper intake still open), Bennet Trim tabs.
Prop is a Mercury Tempest. I believe it is 19, 3 blade prop-hole shot is fine, not an issue.

I really don't care about overall speed, 30-35 is my cruising speed. I just want to be running efficiently for maximum fuel mileage.

Nice setup. The carbed 200 would be an L model. That's the most dependable V6 Mercury ever built.

If your primary concern is efficiency, you might want to consider a different prop, since you're getting a new one, any way. And, with a hydraulic jack plate, I would highly recommend a water pressure gauge. Less than $100 and a lot of peace of mind.

Got the pressure gauge and it works. I always keep a close eye on it and when I am using my jack plate, it starts to drop at higher levels of the jack plate. Although the numbers run okay, it just does not spit like I think it should and it is a new impeller. I figure with a lower intake nose cone, I can get the same water intake with a higher jack plate setting. Like the boat guy says, it can dang near run like my surface drive motor (not quite, but close).

I am new to whole prop thing. I will talk to him. If I go with a 21, is that more or less fuel efficient? What loss do I have (lower top end, better hole shot, right?). Would make sense to me that more cup (lower #?) equals better speed once it is at cruise. Is that wrong?