HULL REPAIR

[CROCKER]

CHASING THOSE SHALLOW WATER REDS HAS FINALY CAUGHT UP WITH ME OR SHOULD I SAY THE BOTTOM OF MY BOAT.

I HAVE A 18' - 1996 BACKCOUNTRY FOR THE MOST PART THE BOAT IS IN EXCELLENT SHAPE, HOWEVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS AT AUCILLA HAS TAKEN ITS TOLL ON THE BOTTOM SIDE.

LOOKING FOR SOME GUIDANCE, SUGGESTION AND EXPECTED COSTS

??? THE SIDES OF THE BOAT ARE FINE, I AM GUESSSING I WILL HAVE TO JACK THE BOAT UP OFF THE TRAILER, SAND THE BOTTOM USE A FIBERGLASS REPAIR KIT TO FILL IN BAD SPOTS, PAINT BOTTOM AND APPLY A GEL COAT? IS THIS CORRECT? WILL THE BOTTOM MATCH UP WELL WITH THE SIDES BY ONLY PAINTING THE BOTTOM.

IS THERE ANY THING I CAN USE TEMPORILY TILL I CAN FIND TIME AND MONEY TO UNDERTAKE THIS PROJECT. THINKING MAYBE A LITTLE SANDING ON THE BAD SPOTS AND SOME TYPE OF SPRAY-ON.

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
THANKS

CROCKER

[Chalk]

How much is it damaged is the biggest question...to the glass? Matching, I wouldn't worry about matching too much, only the fish see it. Alot of sweat, sanding and hours on your back, but it can be done if you have the ambition and willingness.

Some helpful links:

http://www.fiberglass-repair.com/rshop3.html

Suppliers of gelcoat repair kits
http://www.minicraft.com/
http://www.spectrumcolor.com/

[CROCKER]

MOST OF THE DAMAGE CAME FROM BARS SCRATHING THE BOTTOM, THESE ARE SMALL SCRAPES (ALL WHITE). THERE ARE SOME PLACES WHERE THESE SCAPES GOT A LITTLE DEEP (DARKER COLOR).

[Chalk]

Sounds like normal gel coat scratches, you can fix them if you want to...fix one or two and see if it's something you want to do or pay someone.

[Reel Slow]

Get a gel coat "paste" patch kit and fill the ones that go to the fibergalss. Easy to do if you can sand and buff. I wouldn't worry about the ones that don't cut through the gel coat.

[Sir reel]

as long as we've got this thread going.... I'd like to hear some suggestions on what buffer to purchase. I purchased a Ryobi that is rated at 3000rpm but it ain't got enough load to be able to get the job done. What do you glass masters use and what techniques give you the most success. Do you use a high abrasive compound..... what kind..... buff before it dries.....etc... ???

[Sir reel]

BTT... What say ye...

[Steve Stinson]

Gentlemen -

I have bounced off a few rocks this year as well with my Sea Pro. Also, my trailer seems to be my boats worst enemy and will gouge the gelcoat under the front of the hull if the ramp I am using is too steep.

The easiest repair I have found if the color doesn't matter is Marine Tex. Just sand and clean the area to be patched, mix the two compounds according to the instructions and apply with a putty knife.

Once it hardens, go back and re-sand until smooth. This stuff is unbelievably strong. You can mix color in with the compound if the repair is visible, but I have not done that on the underside of my hull.

Be sure you folllow the temperature and humidity recomendations on the Marine Tex box. It will not harden properly if you attempt the repair in conditions outside the limits they set.

- Steve Stinson

[Sir reel]

Sir Reel Writes:

I'd like to hear some suggestions on what buffer to purchase. I purchased a Ryobi that is rated at 3000rpm but it ain't got enough load to be able to get the job done. What do you glass masters use and what techniques give you the most success. Do you use a high abrasive compound..... what kind..... buff before it dries.....etc... ???

? ? ? ? ?

[Steve Stinson]

Bud -

I can't help with the buffer recommedation. I use a couple rags and elbow grease. I recently removed all of the rust colored stain off my boat with Starbrite hull cleaner, then waxed it with Starbrite boat wax.

It did not take me very long at all to do the outside. The inside took a little longer. The HHA trip was the first run after the cleaning job and the wax held up to the saltwater okay. Still beads water and was a breeze to clean afterward.

The Starbrite wax bottle says to apply two coats within 30 days, so I guess I will put another one on.

To fix the problem with the trailer gouging my hull, I removed the front roller and bracket from the trailer and installed a teflon pad I purchased from West Marine. I plan to fix the underside of the hull one more time with Marine Tex, then install a Keel Guard.

- Steve Stinson

[captainspride]

Sir Reel,I am not an expert by no means but my Dad was a bodyman and I use to buff cars for him when I could.I use a Chicago tool variable speed ,11 amp buffer with a thick pad and Meguires #49 for heavy oxidation.After I wipe that down I use the Meguires #45 with a palm type polisher from Wally World.Then after that I finish with 2 coats Meguires #56 pure wax and the gelcoat will look as good as new.As long as you keep it waxed the oxidation shouldn't come back.I have used 1200 and 1600 grit sand paper and have water sanded prior to buffing really bad areas and repairs.Hope this helps.[/quote]

[Sir reel]

Thanks cp

That's exactly the kind of information I'm looking for. Now that you got us on the right track...anyone else with similar info please feel to give us some input. Thanks again.

[KyTrkyHntr]

How much is it damaged is the biggest question...to the glass? Matching, I wouldn't worry about matching too much, only the fish see it. Alot of sweat, sanding and hours on your back, but it can be done if you have the ambition and willingness.

Some helpful links:

http://www.fiberglass-repair.com/rshop3.html

Suppliers of gelcoat repair kits
http://www.minicraft.com/
http://www.spectrumcolor.com/

Man, glad I done did some searching on here!!! Need to fix up some dings from my rookie year as a boat owner...

[silverking]

[quote="Steve Stinson" I plan to fix the underside of the hull one more time with Marine Tex, then install a Keel Guard.

Crocker,
For minor scrapes, you can either go with a fiberglass repair kit or the Marine Tex, as Steve suggested. With the kit, you get different color additives to add to the gel coat to match the original. Experiment first. For example, if the hull is white but faded, add just a tiny squeeze of yellow to the white to match. Marine Tex comes in white and a light gray, too.

Steve, think twice about the Keel Guard if your trailer has any bunk slides. The Guard doesn't slide too well. Tried one on the Bayshore with its deep keel and the bow would stick like glue as soon as the guard made contact with the V-bunk. Ended up removing it and wasted $115 plus the man-hours.

A much better solution is a set of guide slicks. Coastal Marine in Medart can cut to fit your trailer and they are almost greasy when wet. My boat loads so much easier since I installed a set. Of course, GS don't protect your keel against oyster bars, but they help make loading slicker than snot on a raincoat.

[KyTrkyHntr]

[quote="Steve Stinson" I plan to fix the underside of the hull one more time with Marine Tex, then install a Keel Guard.

Crocker,
For minor scrapes, you can either go with a fiberglass repair kit or the Marine Tex, as Steve suggested. With the kit, you get different color additives to add to the gel coat to match the original. Experiment first. For example, if the hull is white but faded, add just a tiny squeeze of yellow to the white to match. Marine Tex comes in white and a light gray, too.

Steve, think twice about the Keel Guard if your trailer has any bunk slides. The Guard doesn't slide too well. Tried one on the Bayshore with its deep keel and the bow would stick like glue as soon as the guard made contact with the V-bunk. Ended up removing it and wasted $115 plus the man-hours.

A much better solution is a set of guide slicks. Coastal Marine in Medart can cut to fit your trailer and they are almost greasy when wet. My boat loads so much easier since I installed a set. Of course, GS don't protect your keel against oyster bars, but they help make loading slicker than snot on a raincoat.

Better late than never SK!