Anchoring on a reef?

[Bud Man]

A few questions for the experienced boating fishermen on here:

Is there a method or technique that helps ensure that when you drop anchor your boat ends up over the desired location? I know to take into consideration fators such as wind and current but just wondering if a rule of thumb existed that helps you or if it just atrial ad error thing? I know most reefs are large enough to provide a substantial margin error but some reefs (Rose City) were hard to get right over. Is it normal to require 3+ anchor drops to get positoned over a small reef?

If over a large reef, do you stil try to anchor just a bit upcurrent from the wreck so that your anchor will be on sand rather than reef thus less likely to foul. Furthermore, do you think fish bite best along the edge of reefs, over the center of them, or am I bing way too tactical here? I did not lose an anchor but we kept having to fight like hell to get them loose... which leads to my next question... What is the best method for freeing a hung up anchor? Should we drive the boat upcurrent, past the vertical anchor point and attempt to free it or is that asking for the anchor line to get caught in the prop? Maybe circle around it a bit if really hung up?

One of you guys has a great signature that says, "If fishing is a sport, I'm an athlete"... those words could never be truer than after arm wrestling every reef this side of 70 feet! I'd appreciate your tips so I can continue my boycott of all things resembling exercise... thanks!

[What a mess]

Rock anchor, anchor ball, ride around it does work pretty good.

Go well across the reef hit neutral find the drift, wind and current will have influence.

Depends on depth current boat size wave action wind etc.. how much anchor & rope need to be used.

Gps can really help you see how you will drift and if you will head towards or away from the reef.

One of the biggest talents or skills to bottom fishing is anchor technic.

[Harmsway]

Is it normal to require 3+ anchor drops to get positoned over a small reef?

Three times is respectable. This simple method can help. Throw out the marker buoy. Let it come to equilibrium for a minute or two. Circle it a time or two to kill time. Observe the direction that the buoy line lays. This is your anchor heading (actually the anchor heading is 180-degrees off the lay of the buoy line). Come around behind the buoy (downwind of the buoy) until the buoy is lined up with your anchor heading. Then make a run close by and then past the buoy (on your anchor heading) until anchor down. Let out scope until you settle upwind of the buoy (or your bottom machine lights up). When fishing gets slow, let out some more scope. This way, you get to fish ahead, dead-on, and behind the marker.

[Jumptrout51]

He actually got it right.

[Barhopr]

I'm right there with you on the anchoring. I still anchor up if on a large patch reef of natural bottom but for the most part, fishing small wrecks or man made reefs you wont ever be able to get it in the right spot. I took a cue from the charter boat guys years ago and keep a guy, usually me, at the helm to keep the stern of the boat right over the spot you want to fish. This makes it easy to fish various areas of the wreck/reef to until you find the fish. Many time those big snapper and grouper are holding on a different section of the patch. If you're 15-20' off "the spot" you are S.O.L.You have to really have to know how to read the sonar and understand currents/wind, but you can hover right over any spot you need to. Plus, when offshore and you see a boat in the distance headed your way you can ease off the spot so as not to give it away to the poacher. Not so easy with an anchor out or a bouy.

[Bud Man]

Sounds like I need a marker buoy... I looked online but does anyone have a brand preference? I see some let lineout themselves while others don't with a big price gap between... suggestions??

Thanks for everyone's help!

[Tom Keels]

http://www.americanbandit.com/cart/

[wacissaguy]

I'm with Tom, I carry a minimum of 2 sometimes 3

[wevans]

Is it normal to require 3+ anchor drops to get positoned over a small reef?

Three times is respectable. This simple method can help. Throw out the marker buoy. Let it come to equilibrium for a minute or two. Circle it a time or two to kill time. Observe the direction that the buoy line lays. This is your anchor heading (actually the anchor heading is 180-degrees off the lay of the buoy line). Come around behind the buoy (downwind of the buoy) until the buoy is lined up with your anchor heading. Then make a run close by and then past the buoy (on your anchor heading) until anchor down. Let out scope until you settle upwind of the buoy (or your bottom machine lights up). When fishing gets slow, let out some more scope. This way, you get to fish ahead, dead-on, and behind the marker.

Another thing you can do once anchored, is turn your motor"s" all the way to one direction and then the other, before letting out rope, ya may just be a little left or right of the sweet spot

[BuggMann222]

[quote="Bud Man"]Sounds like I need a marker buoy... I looked online but does anyone have a brand preference? I see some let lineout themselves while others don't with a big price gap between... suggestions??

Cheap and easy. One foot length of a scrap piece of board: 1X6, 1X8, 2X6 .... you get the idea. Cut it in a Bow Tie shape. Paint it a color that's easy for you to see. Tie line in the middle, wrap it around the center, and attach weight. Toss it over and it unwinds by itself. The heavier the weight, the more accurate the placement will be.

[reelcatch]

I'm with Tom on the Badit buoy. I use one with a 5lb wieght and it works great!!!

[EddieJoe]

Get a Bandit as Tom suggests. The bandit has a rudder on it that turns it into the tide, with a vertical piece of tape on one side. Put another piece on the opposite side. Throw the marker on the spot, and then go upwind/uptide. The stripe will help you anchor, as it faces the current on each side. Run up current/wind of the buoy, then drop the anchor and let out rode to approach the buoy. The distance to go upwind/tide depends on depth and wind/tide. The deeper the water and the greater the tidal/wind, more scope needed. Usually I find I need some rock to hold the boat in much current but usually on hard bottom areas this is not a problem. In addition to the Bandit marker an anchor ball is the other "must have" item on my boat for anchoring offshore in deeper water.

An important issue is what anchor to use and how to rig it. A standard danforth style anchor can be easily rigged "rock" by drilling a hole in the upper anchor, attaching the chain there, then tying the anchor to the end of the shank with plastic ties or mono. If you get the anchor hung, go upcurrent from the spot either with an anchor ball (the best way by far) or without. The plastic ties will break, and the anchor will (should) pull away from the rock. On artificial reefs, I use a rock style anchor and actually anchor on the reef structure. This is risky, but usually you can get it free using the same techniques previously described. The problem with anchoring in the sand upcurrent from an artificial reef is I usually drag anchor some and wind up in the rubble or reef balls anyway.

Regarding how to anchor, I like to be upcurrent from a site and to let the bait draw the fish away from structure. The fish will normally orient towards the tidal flow so if you are behind the rock or reef you won't draw them because the scent will flow away from the fish. Luck, EJ

[flogator]

How do you use an 'anchor retriever' (ball with ring)??

[EddieJoe]

How do you use an 'anchor retriever' (ball with ring)??

First, either buy an anchor ball "kit" with a ball, short rope, clip, and ring, or have the folks at AMS in Medart (or elsewhere) make one up for you.

To use to retrieve the anchor and line once you have the parts, put the ring over the anchor rode, clip on the line and ball, and toss it over the side so the ring can "ride" on the anchor rode with the ball above. Carefully motor upcurrent at about a 45 degree angle to the current (either side of the anchor rode), being sure that the anchor rode and ball does not get fouled on your prop. Secure the anchor rode to a cleat on the side of your boat, and keep heading at an angle upcurrent. The ball will slide down the rode towards the anchor, and as it does, speed up some to a fast idle, but not on full plane. The ball will lift the anchor up from the bottom and slide back to the chain, and you keep going until the ball has gone all of the way, which usually causes the ball to bound around out of the water and you can spot the anchor at the end of the line. Sometimes it is necessary to go fairly fast to get the anchor all of the way to the surface. Slow to idle, turn back towards the ball (and anchor which is now at the surface), put in neutral or go real slow, and retrieve the anchor rode as you drift towards the ball. The anchor will be at the surface right at the ball. Bring the ball, chain, and anchor aboard carefully so as not to ding your boat, unclip the line and take off the ring, and secure the anchor. There is some beneficial angle when you use this method that almost guarantees you won't hang the anchor, although I have broken the plastic ties on the anchor some times as it is pulled to the surface.

It is real low tech and relatively inexpensive but works like a charm, and especially in water over 50' it saves a heck of a lot of work. You are just pulling in line without the weight of the anchor or chain from the bottom. I love the device.

EJ