90 Yamaha impeller change..
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- dstockwell
- Posts: 4214
- Joined: March 5th, 2002, 8:00 pm
- Location: Valdosta, GA
90 Yamaha impeller change..
Some shots changing the impeller on whendrix 90 Yamaha.
First thing is remove the bolt that holds the anode, mark its alignment for re-installation.
After we removed the bolts, the two half's did not easily separate and had to use a mallet to get to this point. Remove the wire tie that connects the speedo tube.
Rigged up some cross braces to put on the saw horse.
OK, we are at the impeller, but do not believe it will slide off, it had to be cut off.
Straight new, old curved. I should have got a pic of this step, but did not. Installing new, will slide down the shaft until the end, will not slide any more. Took a wrench that was bigger than the shaft, slipped it over, and tapped on the wrench to move the new impeller in place. There is a slot in the impeller that will line up with a key. Now how are you going to put back on the cover with a new straight impeller where that curved one came out of. Well we used a wire tie and tightened it just enough to adjust the new impeller put the cover on and ready to put back together.
Putting this back together seemed worse than taking it apart. Since we had to use a mallet to take apart, putting the two half's back together was a pain as you needed to push and twist or shake a little at the same time, but finally got her back together.
Steady stream on the ops check..
First thing is remove the bolt that holds the anode, mark its alignment for re-installation.
After we removed the bolts, the two half's did not easily separate and had to use a mallet to get to this point. Remove the wire tie that connects the speedo tube.
Rigged up some cross braces to put on the saw horse.
OK, we are at the impeller, but do not believe it will slide off, it had to be cut off.
Straight new, old curved. I should have got a pic of this step, but did not. Installing new, will slide down the shaft until the end, will not slide any more. Took a wrench that was bigger than the shaft, slipped it over, and tapped on the wrench to move the new impeller in place. There is a slot in the impeller that will line up with a key. Now how are you going to put back on the cover with a new straight impeller where that curved one came out of. Well we used a wire tie and tightened it just enough to adjust the new impeller put the cover on and ready to put back together.
Putting this back together seemed worse than taking it apart. Since we had to use a mallet to take apart, putting the two half's back together was a pain as you needed to push and twist or shake a little at the same time, but finally got her back together.
Steady stream on the ops check..
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REPLACING WATER PUMP
HEY STOCKWELL, MY MOTTO IS , IF IT IS WORKING DON'T FIX. THAT OLD IMPELLER LOOKED GOOD TO ME.
PA
PA
FUTCHCAIRO
- Bonecracker
- Posts: 187
- Joined: November 6th, 2006, 4:17 pm
- Location: Thomasville, GA
- Dubble Trubble
- Site Sponsor
- Posts: 2348
- Joined: October 30th, 2005, 8:46 pm
- Location: Thomasville
Just my comments here.
First, Just because the impeller LOOKS good does not mean it is. After a few years, the center hub can get stress cracks and then let the shaft spin inside it if it breaks. Or the rubber can come unbonded from the hub and you will not see it.....
Also, it is an EXCELLENT idea to break the foot loose every few years if you run in salt water so you can clean up any corrosion. Even if the impeller looks ok, replace it just to be sure. Be sure to clean and paint any areas of exposed or corroded aluminum to prevent further corrosion.
It is a rather easy job (usually less that 1 hour) if you have not let the foot freeze to the motor. However, it DOES require basic mechanical skills to do it right. Realignment is a little tricky sometimes on some models.
Oh forgot, unless you are familiar with your model, a shop manual is a must! It is worth the cost.....
Dubble
First, Just because the impeller LOOKS good does not mean it is. After a few years, the center hub can get stress cracks and then let the shaft spin inside it if it breaks. Or the rubber can come unbonded from the hub and you will not see it.....
Also, it is an EXCELLENT idea to break the foot loose every few years if you run in salt water so you can clean up any corrosion. Even if the impeller looks ok, replace it just to be sure. Be sure to clean and paint any areas of exposed or corroded aluminum to prevent further corrosion.
It is a rather easy job (usually less that 1 hour) if you have not let the foot freeze to the motor. However, it DOES require basic mechanical skills to do it right. Realignment is a little tricky sometimes on some models.
Oh forgot, unless you are familiar with your model, a shop manual is a must! It is worth the cost.....
Dubble
The more I know about something, the more I know that I did not know as much as I thought I knew that I knew.
- Dubble Trubble
- Site Sponsor
- Posts: 2348
- Joined: October 30th, 2005, 8:46 pm
- Location: Thomasville
The reason to leave it in gear is so you can turn the prop to help align the splines on the driveshaft during reassembly.
If it was in neutral, you could not turn the shaft, making it hard to align.......
Dubble
If it was in neutral, you could not turn the shaft, making it hard to align.......
Dubble
The more I know about something, the more I know that I did not know as much as I thought I knew that I knew.
- dstockwell
- Posts: 4214
- Joined: March 5th, 2002, 8:00 pm
- Location: Valdosta, GA